Still after that perfect place to dine alfresco? The hunt is over. This great new outdoor restaurant combines the fine grounds of the 11th century Fulham Palace, historic country seat to the Bishops of London, with a casual modern style. Unfussy wooden tables, comfy stripy chairs and you couldn't fault the view - a sweeping lawn and ancient trees - particularly if you're sipping a bellini with fresh white peach puree (£8.50). Bliss.

Starters are all stunners and we struggled to pick just two. We loved the summery salad of fresh peas, pea shoots, mint and braised ham hock (£6.50), and savoured Cornish sardines even more, their rich taste elegantly offset by a white bean, tomato confit, thyme and parsley salad (£7.50). A moist fillet of black bream (£14.50) didn't quite need its mountain of fennel, and my grilled halibut steak (£17.80) in buttered samphire was almost ruined by an overbuttery orange sauce. But the fish itself was top hole and good value.

The service was flawless, and as the huge popularity of Inn The Park shows, restaurateur Oliver Peyton has a real knack for doing outdoor dining well. Children are very welcome (there's a kids' menu) and frolic happily around on the lawn, but you hardly hear them over the clink of cutlery. By night, the lavender borders are lit by torches but we moved inside for Famous Five-style puddings - a chocolate and nut sundae, and a scrummy Eton Mess: cream, meringue, and fresh strawberries (£5.50 each).

Outside it may be wet and cold - but somehow at The Lawn it's always a sunny English summer's day.