Morning:
12°c
Secret loans totalling £61.6 billion to struggling banks Royal Bank of Scotland and HBOS revealed for the first time
More...
New Moon is nothing if not an international advertisement for the hungry virtues of virginity and young people can’t get enough of it
The Twilight Saga: New Moon
Theatre
A smart, prickly and rewarding view of sexual and emotional confusion
Cock
Restaurants
Kitchen W8 is a bargain for this area, if such sophistication is what you crave
Kitchen W8
Too long and drawn out but very entertaining with excellent special effects
This is a peculiar play and does not work for me. Some of it is very funny but there are real flaws
Alex has a strong powerful voice and was faultless, she is far better now than she was on the X-Factor
London,
Evening Standard rating
Reader rating
Phone: 020 7851 7051
Open: Open every day noon-midnight.
Digital dining: customers use the interactive table top to select their food
My relationship with the name Inamo, brief though it is, has been one of peaks and troughs. At first it sounded promising, enigmatically poised somewhere between Japan and China, like a fictional land in the novels of Haruki Murakami, or at least one of the finely tuned restaurants — Hakkasan, Busaba, Yauatcha — of Alan Yau. Or else it was a Latin verb (inamo, inamas, inamat.) Then, with a lurch and plummet, realisation dawned: it’s in-a-mo, as in “in a moment”. Geddit?
Its big idea is that your table is an interactive screen, where by pointing and clicking you can find your menu, see pictures of each item, and order. The frustration of waggling fingers or tinging glasses to get waiters’ attention is consigned to the same dustbin of history as the night soil men who once disposed of London’s sewage. Waiters become people who flit out of the shadows to place dishes on the table, flitting away again without eye contact.
You can also personalise your décor by choosing from a range of patterns and colours that glow from the table like a Kowloon nightscape. The table can order taxis for you and show you bus maps. You can play battleships with your co-diner, should conversation flag.
In the future, no doubt, the tables will allow courting couples virtually to flutter their fingertips, praise the lustre of each other’s eyes and offer invitations home for coffee. After that the tables will be able to propose marriage and discuss shared mortgages and pensions.
It’s a gimmick with a capital G, and one that feels out of time — isn’t high-concept stuff like this what you do at the top of a boom? But it’s fun for all that, and you should go once just for the ride.
The general look is futuristic-
digital, crossed with Far East kitsch. The light gleams pale blue, pink and mauve, and your drinks and food tend to end up looking yellow-green.
Whether you go a second time will depend on the food (I almost forgot the food). The style is Oriental fusion and the chef is ex-Nobu and ex-Hakkasan. Whether this means he departed these places in a hail of woks and curses, or with tearful pleas and financial inducements to stay, I don’t know, but Inamo is not up to their standards.
In Inamo’s spirit of digital efficiency I will record the dishes as follows. Edamame: soggy. Spring rolls: a nicely crispy and futuristic translucent crust. Steak on a hot stone: good meat, well cooked. Neck of pork: disturbingly chilly and uneven temperature. Crispy prawns, marinated quail, miso soup, pomegranate duck: all OK. Wild boar rolls: intriguing. Sake martini: ditto. Roast banana with something or other: cleaning fluid.
Overall effect: a surfeit of sticky gunk, a lack of freshness in the taste, and frightening swings from the good to the truly horrible. I found myself ordering a whisky at the end to purge my palate of lingering acridity.
Inamo exploits the same neurons as eBay. Mesmerised by the magic of clicking, you find yourself ordering the culinary equivalent of William Shatner LPs and vintage Teasmades, and before you know it you ’re paying £40 a head. What is that? Did I order it? The table says you did.
With so much effort invested in the electronic tables, the management don’t yet seem to be in control of the kitchen. I truly hope that they manage this. As I say, the idea is fun and there is even some decent food struggling to get out.
There is also a selfish reason for wishing them success, as it would allow me to close with a line that is otherwise denied me: I’ve seen the future — and it’s woks.
Click here for great restaurant offers
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
[ 1 ] [ 2 ]
Having no idea what this restaurant was going to be like and only seeing the one review on this website, some people may say it was a bit crazy to go there. However myself and 5 friends went along and I have to say had a very good experience there. The decor and atmosphere is fun and friendly the staff are all very welcoming and cheerful and the food was wonderful. There were a few problems with the ordering, which was a mixture of our own inability to work the ordering system through our tables and the staff still with a few teething issues, but any mistake was quickly corrected with out a worry at all.
Its a breath of fresh air in an all ready restaurant packed road and if my experience is anything to go by, will be there for a very long time!
I would highly recommend going to this restaurant!
- Christopher, St Albans
The concept of digital ordering is certainly new which is the sole reason I came here. There is only a catch. Value for money is rock bottom as each dish costs £6 upwards but the portions are minute. The service standard really leaves much to be desired - the manager must've thought good experienced waiters/waitresses aren't needed because you'll mainly be ordering from the "touch-table".
Service is dire. When you book this place they assign you a table to sit at and it seems that no matter what you want you'll be placed at that table. I arrived at 6.30pm and the place only had about 6 customers, out of a ground level capacity for about 36. However, we weren't allowed to sit at the cushioned sofa bit at the corners because...they have parties arriving at 8pm!
During the meal, the waitress tried to take away my dish as I was still holding food with my pair of chopsticks. The waiter who gave me the cardreader machine when I asked for a bill actually disappeared after giving me the machine! He was so busy helping a new group of arrivals! They had 5-6 waiters/waitresses that I could see and I didn't understand why this guy had to leave our table for that? In the end I did the whole process myself, including printing the merchant receipt and the customer receipt. My dining partner also commented that I could easily have clicked refund on my card straight away since the waiter didn't bother coming back until we both got up and left.
- Et, London
