Morning:
11°c
London faces a wave of bus and Tube strikes that could cause chaos for millions of passengers as unions walkout over pay and conditions
More...
An awesome and ridiculous film that leaves you thrilled beyond the point of your natural endurance
2012
Theatre
The show has suddenly become quite wonderful, and the galvanising factor is the terrific stage debut of Melanie C
Blood Brothers
Music
The British pop music industry may be eating itself but if Muse are the pick of what it can offer the world in 2010 then British music is in rude health indeed
Muse
I was smitten by both Gilberts enormous luxuriant moustache and the intelligence and nuance of this highly entertaining play
I totally recommend Babbo to anyone who is looking for really good and traditional Italian food
Always been a fan but never seen them live. I was ecstatic to be part of this epic event. WOW!
London,
Chris Blackhurst's rating
Reader rating
Description: "An excellent alternative to Chez Bruce" -- this "chic", "friendly" and "imaginative" Balham spot is an "unbeatable" local, whose standards, say fans, are "not far behind" those of its legendary rival; perhaps its recent refurbishment will draw even wider acclaim.
Food: 
Service:
Ambience: 
Phone: 020 8675 2233
Website: http://www.lambertsrestaurant.com
Good for: Good food, Ambience.
Payment options:
Shining example: City types wanting to run their dream restaurant should go to Lamberts first
Those with small children will know the things that irritate in restaurants. Likewise, those without will be all too aware how other
people’s children can ruin a meal.
At Lamberts, they know how to please both children and their parents. They seem to have thought of everything. The children, aged three and one, were sat at one end of the table, not in the middle, so they could get out easily; the high chair was ready and waiting; glasses and cutlery were positioned well away from them; they had wooden cutlery; they were given puzzles and pencils, and they could fetch toys and books from a box by the door. Their food came quickly.
That’s not to say Lamberts is like a branch of Giraffe or Nando’s. It’s a very grown-up restaurant, a superb one, that knows how to make children and their parents feel at home. The place was packed and only about a third of the parties contained children. There was no question of the kids running riot or of the restaurant resembling a noisy playground with tables and chairs attached.
Everything was quiet and understated. The walls are taupe, the banquettes made of soft brown velvet. The staff were efficient and entirely in tune with the diners — nothing escaped their attention, nothing was too much trouble.
We took a friend who lives around the corner in Balham. At various points in the meal, he exclaimed “Balham! Balham!” as if the neighourhood and good food are not meant to go together. Famously, in the past they have not. In the late, great Peter Sellers skit on “Bal-Ham, Gateway to the South” the comedian’s poet character visits the El-Morocco tea room. It’s 10 to three and this inspires him to ask: “Is there honey still for tea?” “Sorry, dear,” comes the tea lady’s reply. “Honey’s off.”
Lamberts is the antithesis of the El-Morocco. Founded by former Merrill Lynch banker Mark Lambert and his brother Joe, with Chas Tapaneyasastr leading the kitchen, it is close to perfection. There’s no fuss, no ostentation. The prices, as with the cooking, are perfectly judged. On a Sunday, a credit crunch-defying £20 gets you two courses; £24 brings three. The children can have a mini-roast for £4.50 or choose from their own menu. As with the adults’ fare, it’s all excellent quality, seasonal and British-sourced.
Our pal had wild boar ham with rocket, sautéed apples and walnut dressing. The ham was moist and succulent. We had crispy Cornish squid with aïoli — miraculously, the squid tasted as though it had just come out of the sea — and wild mushrooms on toast. Again, the mushrooms gave the impression of having been picked on nearby Tooting Common minutes before. Portions were generous. There was definitely no hint of stinting.
For the main course, we all plumped for the 28-day-aged Aberdeen Angus roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and horseradish cream. The beef, which had a pepper coating, melted away. The Yorkshire pudding was feathery — more angel wing than the old car tyre some places dish up.
The children had organic pork sausages, chips and beans and sausages, mash and peas (£3.50 each). The waitress asked if they wanted ketchup and it was produced, immediately, in a bowl. She had it ready, like the Blue Peter presenter saying: “This is one I prepared earlier.”
Pudding for us was blueberry cheesecake with berry compôte; sticky toffee pudding, and port poached pear with liquorice ice cream (this prompted more amazed cries of “Balham, I don’t believe it, Balham!”). They were impossible to fault. The children had vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce (£2).
We had a reliable bottle of Rioja,
Marqués de Cáceres 2004 (£25). In all, we stayed for nearly three hours, something of a miracle with children. Indeed, when we left we felt as though we’d been reminded of the time we didn’t have children and could spend all Sunday afternoon in restaurants. There can be no finer testament than that.
A message to anyone quitting the City and thinking of ploughing their money into the restaurant they’ve always dreamed of running: please, visit Lamberts and get an idea of how it’s done.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
'Those without will be all too aware how other people’s children can ruin a meal' - especially if they have the misfortune to be sitting next to this reviewer and his family. Our Sunday lunch was completely spoiled by his children's noisy, undisciplined and indulged behaviour - other diners' offspring were angelic in comparison. I'm a big fan of Lambert's but will make sure future visits are evening ones.
- Lilli, South London
Matt - Dan Edwards?
- Tracy., Balham, London
Hi Chris
Have eaten here several times on visits to Londres, and it is outstanding - but that was definitely not the head chef's name.
bisous
- Matt Francophilia, Paris
