In these dark days it takes real gumption to open a new restaurant. Luckily this genteel Battersea gastropub has a history of foolhardy courage and derring-do. It's named after 17th-century rake henry st John, Viscount Bolingbroke, legendary for hard-drinking escapades and romantic dalliances. the dining room is unpretentious but elegant: whitewashed walls, wood panelling, roaring fire.

It was packed on our wet week night and it's probably a scrum at sunday lunch too, given how child-friendly it is: children get home-made fish fingers and funny-face fairy cakes to decorate. the menu is heartily British. My stout-seared king scallops (£7) came with mushy pea purée, crispy air-dried ham and slices of green apple. Sweetcorn and chilli soup (£5) really tasted of corn. You have to be strong to resist the call of a juicy British beefburger with cheddar and chips (£9) and an array of toppings including Old spot bacon, chorizo and fried duck egg. The signature choice for dieters is the Viscount seasonal salad (£10): asparagus, peas, cherry tomatoes, baby spinach, baby gem, broad beans, baby carrots and ticklemore goat's cheese (£15 with tuna steak, £13 with chicken breast). Bursting with well-selected British faves, the cheese board (£7.50) was a thing of wonder.

Kitchen commander here is Massimo tebaldi, veteran of smiths of smithfield and, apparently, now the personal cook to Bryan Adams. Lucky Bryan, I say.