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Fay Maschler's rating
Terrific dishes at Terroirs
By
Fay Maschler
19 Nov 2008
Ralph Waldo Emerson’s observation that “A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds” is the quote at the head of a long drinks list at newly opened wine bar and restaurant Terroirs. Faced with the 25-page booklet — divided and described at some length by method, colour, geography and influence — foolish hobgoblin was how I felt.
Fortunately, the amiable owners and staff were well versed in the particularities of what is on offer, as I noticed, with a flicker of goblin pleasure, that the page numbers at the front of the tome sometimes don’t accurately correspond with the content.
One of the aims of the list is to offer and promote what are called “natural” wines: those made from relatively small quantities of handpicked grapes without added sugars or foreign yeasts and often minus the contribution of sulphites traditionally relied upon
as a preservative and slayer of microbes.
No concomitant hangover is said to be an attribute of natural wines but scientifically the claim has shakier legs than one for purity, texture and singularity.
A glass poured from a bottle labelled October 2008, Domaine des Foulards Rouges from Wines of the Moment, where 24 choices are offered by the glass, 500cl “pot” or bottle, didn’t do it for me. It seemed to define a fine, slightly fizzy line between grape juice and its altered state. I am sure I could have drunk a lot of it without morning-after regrets but I chose a slightly more conventional accompaniment — organic and biodynamic wines also feature strongly — to what proved to be exceptionally, excitingly good food.
Chef and partner in the business is Ed Wilson who spent some formative years with Chris Galvin. His menu is divided into sections of bar snacks, charcuterie and cheese — champion for wine browsing — plus small plates and plats du jour. Either start very hungry or eat with friends to maximise the pleasure of sharing as much as possible.
Thought, love and precision in execution have gone into items such as soft white polenta and wild mushrooms; clams, ham, garlic and chilli; bone marrow and truffle; piperade Basquaise (served in a Kilner jar) with chorizo; Lincolnshire smoked eel with celeriac remoulade; potted brown shrimps and steak tartare. Even the dressing on the green salad spoke of France although the leaves were a bit silly-frilly. Pumpkin, chestnut and Parmesan soup was one of the best soups of this year.
Two terrific main dishes were bavette (aka skirt or hanger steak) with shallots and red wine sauce, and braised duck and salsify pie, this last a real winner. Also, make sure to have dessert. Salty caramel, one of the high points of life, is here poured over lacy crèpes. Sicilian lemon posset had the citrus zing and sting you would expect.
Terroirs, with the sort of pictures, posters and chansons that spring to mind when the phrase French bistro is uttered, is a loud, joyful place where the enjoyment of wine is considered utterly natural. It’s better, I think, when they forget to turn the music on.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Reader views (12)
On the recommendation of a colleague, I took my fiancee and my parents to Terroirs. Good location, right at the heart of London, and my father described this as the best restaurant experience he has ever had! Though perhaps his judgement was 'enhanced' by the frankly incredible selection of wines - we just went for offerings by the glass, but there was much, much more that stood out on the rest of the list - but I would find it hard to disagree! The food is great and I would recommend Terroirs without hesitation. Will certainly be returning.
- Tom Adamson, London, 20/08/2009 16:21
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Although the food was good the whole evening was ruined by the rudeness and arrogance of the staff. The eclectic and extensive wine list is pointless when two out of my three choices were unavailable. The table was too small to fit the serving dishes on, which might explain why two of the starters came before the main course and two came afterwards. Not an experience I would rush to repeat.
- Brian Curling, London, 25/03/2009 09:51
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I'd recommend Terroirs without hesitation off the back of a memorable and riotous evening spent with old friends. What a revelation to find this kind of experience so easily accessible in the centre of London! The food was hearty and rich, and matched with some belting wines. Great, lively atmosphere too!
By the way, you're probably not going to "get" this place if you're the kind of person who goes to a French bistro expecting to get some "nut bread" with his/her cheese!!!
- Paul M, London, 05/03/2009 08:47
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Three of us went after work prepared to be disappointed because of the hype but found it to be first class. No complaints whatsoever as far as the service, atmosphere (much better than its predecessor), food (spot on) and wine (sublime). Very happy to find such a terrific place in the middle of the gloom and doom of the credit crunch. Can't wait for the basement
restaurant to open or more branches (hopefully). A great formula and extremely reasonably priced in view of the top quality of the products.
- Sue, London, 04/03/2009 23:00
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Food was pretty good, service was arrogantly french. Waiting staff were more than casual and not too fussed when guests wanted service. Decor ok but could have had more thought. Just baguettes with the cheese which is a massive let down - no cheese bisuits or fruit/nut bread. Great selection of wine but no service to enforce or back this up. Overall an ok experience for a casual lunch/dinner if you go in bearing in mind the above comments on the service!
- Sarah Bradley, London, 01/03/2009 00:13
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Incredibly disappointing experience this week at much recommended Terroirs. Overall food was mediocre: quality of chorizo, jamon de teruel and the black pudding surprisingly poor. All dishes came swimming in oil and those served in the frying pans wereonly just lukewarm... The polenta with gorgonzola etc was soggy and tasteless, the smoked duck salad truly average and the service very stretched.Have they become too successful as we were kept waiting for our table (which we had booked and then given a really poor location) even though there were free spaces? We weren't the only ones to complain that night, table next to us spent ages waiting for their food which was also only lukewarm. Wines were good, the only positive in a lacklustre evening.
- Liz, london, 13/02/2009 00:31
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The simplest things, splendidly done. Interesting wines by the glass, Wholly genuine staff. What Paris should be but sometimes isn't. The 2 US professors we took loved the 'buzz' and enjoyed the French posters for Harvard, too.
- Steve, London, 22/01/2009 14:39
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Fabulous food and a great atmosphere. Service was exemplary. Really unusual dishes and each one exquisite. Fine dining at it's best in a relaxed environment. The best meal I've had out in London for a long time! Thoroughly recommend a visit.
- Kay Glover, Datchet UK, 11/01/2009 10:56
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Great food, I mean really great and authentic, not poncy, it ticks all the three T's for me - taste, texture and temperature, all washed down with stunningly precise and pure "real" wine that at times can be transendental in its quality. A real gem, a new star in the London firmament
5 out of 5 or 20 out of 20 - your choice
- Tim Wildman MW
- Tim, Brighton, 20/11/2008 01:10
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I had this so called 'bavette' in France when living there and thought it only fit to sole my shoe - don't risk it unless you love a long chew . Better still ask the waiter for a sample !
Admittedly, braised it may tenderise but shocking if flash fried !
- Sophie Sinclair, Malaga,Spain, 19/11/2008 22:35
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Really enjoyed my meal here. Great food, great wine, great fun. Many thanks to the Terroirs Team
- Andrew, London, UK, 19/11/2008 11:45
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Have been twice now to this French hotspot, I absolutely love it! Is a real must for anyone with passion for good wine and fantastic food
- Oli Barnett, London, 19/11/2008 10:04
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