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An awesome and ridiculous film that leaves you thrilled beyond the point of your natural endurance
2012
Theatre
The show has suddenly become quite wonderful, and the galvanising factor is the terrific stage debut of Melanie C
Blood Brothers
Music
The British pop music industry may be eating itself but if Muse are the pick of what it can offer the world in 2010 then British music is in rude health indeed
Muse
I was smitten by both Gilberts enormous luxuriant moustache and the intelligence and nuance of this highly entertaining play
I totally recommend Babbo to anyone who is looking for really good and traditional Italian food
Always been a fan but never seen them live. I was ecstatic to be part of this epic event. WOW!
London,
Fay Maschler's rating
Reader rating
Phone: 020 7491 8638
Open: Open daily, lunch 12.30-2.30pm, dinner 6.30-10.30pm. Bar menu 2.30-6.30pm.
Classic cooking: (from left) sous chef Donato La Torre, manager Giovanni Baldino and head chef Marco Torri of Bar Trattoria Semplice, which offers a changing regional menu
My heart bleeds, kind of, for restaurateurs who laid grandiose plans —now coming to fruition —when recession was not even a glimmer in Gordon Brown’s eye. Others more prescient, more concerned to celebrate noble produce, who search out wines from diligent small producers and consider the pockets of regular restaurant customers — a category into which both of today’s restaurants fit — can afford themselves a smile.
To provide competition for yourself on your front door is perhaps dopey but the owners of one of my favourite Italian restaurants in London, Ristorante Semplice, couldn’t resist the emptiness of the pub around the corner. Their trattoria and bar, dominated by a huge photograph of hills near Siena, is devoted to specialist regional salume and cheeses and the sort of dishes like spaghetti con pomodori that started our love affair with Italian food.
Another classic, melanzane alla Parmigiana, which I associate with my first attempts at cooking from Elizabeth David’s book Italian Food many moons ago, was perfectly, delicately executed. It is one of those dishes where the ingredients — aubergines, tomatoes, mozzarella and Parmesan — seem to have been made for one another.
Spaghetti with clams and mussels was another much appreciated first course. Two separate, unrelated, people have raved to me about the potato gnocchi with duck and Savoy cabbage ragu.
The Tuscan menu, one of the monthly-changing regional menus that are a feature of the restaurant, had not kicked in when I tried Semplice Minor. I am looking rather longingly as I type at peppone, black pork stew, and maialino da latte arrosta, roasted suckling pig, on that list which should be available until the end of this month. I can vouch for fegato di vitello alla Veneziana, which was extraordinarily tender and light, cushioned by onions that had been puréed to very good effect.
Desserts are served in the old-fashioned way on a trolley. The various tarts — try lemon and mascarpone — are made by a young Italian pastry chef called Cristina.
A generous protracted soft opening with half-price food and wine, which obtained here, can make the real deal seem not, how shall we say, cheapo. But in the West End it is good value and when shopping there, keep in mind the all-day bar menu.
That moment when you drop could be saved by the mortadella served with a spoonful of runny Gorgonzola and a glass of wine chosen by the knowledgeable and empathetic Giovanni Baldino.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
