Afternoon:
10°c
Fay Maschler's rating
Bocca di Lupo is scrumptious Soho treat
By
Fay Maschler
3 Dec 2008
Bocca di Lupo is not the greatest restaurant name I’ve come across — it means mouth of the wolf — but just maybe there are some people out there who don’t know that lupo, the wolf, surrogate mother to Romulus and Remus, is the symbolic mother of ancient Rome. A silhouette of a wolf howling at the moon is used for the logo and that does sit quite well in Archer Street, deep in what you might call hardcore Soho.
The phrase bocca di lupo apparently has other colloquial meanings but let’s not bother with more info from the press release. As with most restaurant years when there is a tendency — mainly thanks to architects and builders — for some of the best to be saved for last, so it is with 2008. Chef Jacob Kenedy and general manager Victor Hugo’s new Italian venture is, to put no finer a point on it, absolutely spiffing.
Both Kenedy and Hugo have worked at Moro where, about 10 years ago at the age of 18, Kenedy asked the owners for a job. Sam and Samantha Clarke responded to his enthusiasm, drive and obvious passion for food and say he was “a formidable presence in the kitchen”. He also helped with the Moro cookery books, which are notably inspiring and useful in the doubtful genre of restaurant-inspired recipes.
Kenedy’s own restaurant is a literal showcase for his talents as he works behind a long Carrara marble bar which seats about 20 diners. Further on is the dining room lit by a huge circular chandelier and furnished with bare tables with an agreeable ink-stained school desk look to the wood. On the wall still lifes focus on ingredients. In one a woman is trimming an artichoke, which I interpreted as a sign to order fritto Romano, that particular way of deep-frying a whole artichoke into what looks like a crunchy chrysanthemum and pairing it with veal sweetbreads.
As with most of the dishes, fritto Romano can be served as a small or large plate. The menu is divided in this manner, obviating the need for first and main course decisions — it is possible and absolutely desirable simply to share many items. A stack of small white plates in the centre of each table helps with the practicalities.
Dishes we loved included an Umbrian salad of shaved black radish, celeriac and Pecorino dressed with pomegranate seeds and truffle oil; Sicilian spaghettini with lobster, mussels and ginger — the inclusion of ginger is a masterstroke; pork and foie gras sausage with farro and porcini from Trentino; Sicilian rack of lamb with caponata — fantastic meat and a tactful version of the sweet-sour vegetable stew; Roman spinach which comes chilled with lemon and oil or hot with hot chilli, the version we chose.
The practically sat-nav understanding of Italian culinary regions doesn’t let up with desserts. Cassata Siciliana —ricotta, orange and chocolate layered with sponge cake and marzipan — was topped with a luscious lemon icing that reminded me of the cakes that used to be served in Fuller’s teashops. So that region called Nostalgia was also visited. Taleggio from Lombardy served with fennel, grape and rosehip honey salad is a brilliant combo.
Waiting staff led by Victor Hugo are the opposite of his namesake’s famous work Les Misérables: they are adept and cheerful. A proportion of the comprehensive Italian wine list is offered by the glass and 500ml carafe and even coffee has been minutely considered. The management is “proud to serve Caffe Sant’Eustachio which is wood-roasted by an artisan producer in the centre of Rome”. The mouth of the customer anyway is well assuaged here.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Reader views (9)
Well well well, as an old and dear friend of Danny McSorley, I am delighted to see he is involved in a restaurant that provokes such an eloquent review. I will definitely come and try the wares on my next visit to London. Hope all is well with you Danny.
- Gregg Lobban, Paris, France, 09/10/2009 14:43
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I'm so pleased to see this fantastic restaurant is getting the praise it deserves!! Beautiful restaurant, a feast to the eyes as well as the taste buds... If I could eat here every day I would - I may have to make a habit of it, actually.
- Locky, London, 09/10/2009 13:43
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Dear Fay/ Eve Standard
What an amazing review for an outstanding new restaurant. Couldn't agree more...
We are already regulars -such an inspired menu ! Frozen Rice Pudding with Strawbs!
Danny McSorley the Restaurant Manager is a great friend and he too should get credit as he was the Restaurant Manager of Moro's for 10yrs!! ...Danny has a natural gift for making everyone feel welcome and is a true gourmet with great taste for wine also.
Suffice to say that with Jacob (and Davo) in the kitchen and Victor and Danny front of house ... what a terrific team!
xx
- S-J Heany, London, 09/10/2009 13:43
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I would like to address the comments that the staff and chef's don't know Italian cuisine. With regards to the 'ginger' comment. On the menu it clearly states that this is a 'BDL' creation, therefore they acknowledge its creation is their own! I think Jacob Kenedy is a master at cooking classic recipes better than ever- (parmigiana di melanzane for example) AND developing & creating delicious new dishes. How exciting!
- Seth, london, 09/10/2009 13:43
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I have also had the pleasure of tasting the wonderfully authentic dishes at bocca di lupo and agree wholeheartedly that Jacob Kenedy is expert at creating delicious food.
- Daniela, London, 09/10/2009 13:43
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What a let-down. Perhaps the chefs and maitre d' should undertake an urgent training in Italian cuisine and what it means to run a room for italians. Flavours are just not true (why do they use things like Ginger, totally unknown in Italy?) and the delivery is under the London/Italian guise favoured by cheap trattorias in the 1980's. Except that here nothing is cheap and I wonder how many people will be returning. I come from the Florence area and I am sorry to say that none of the dishes on offer had any 'pull' power. Stick to what you know, chaps, without venturing unto unknown territories risking ridicule.
Duccio
- Tancredi (Duccio) Filimbeni, London, England, 09/10/2009 13:43
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It's this simple: Bocca di Lupo is the finest Italian restaurant to appear in London for many, many years. Be in no doubt that if you are looking for exceptionally-cooked Italian food, at a reasonable price in wonderful surroundings then BDL should be at the top of your list. Since it opened I have eaten there five times (3 for lunch and 2 for dinner), and each successive visit has left me grasping for superlatives when it comes to describing the sublime food on offer. I took two of my colleagues from work for lunch on Friday and one of them, an Italian, was lost for words as she'd never tasted such genuine Italian cooking like this in London before. BDL is the real thing, and if you can get a table, just go. It won't break the bank and I can guarantee that you'll be rushing back for more.
- Keith Mcdonnell, London, 09/10/2009 13:43
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I'm still recovering from the workover my tastebuds received at Bocca di Lupo last night! With an Italian partner, I am no stranger to good Italian food (and wine) but this was something else - utterly flavoursome food cooked and prepared to perfection. To ensure it was the perfect evening, the waiting staff were attentive and friendly, and the surroundings were warm and inviting. I am torn between telling everyone about this place and trying to keep it a secret, since I am already plotting my next visit and want to make sure I can get a table!!!
- Tony Law, London, 09/10/2009 13:43
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I worked with Jacob in San Francisco at BLVD restaurant, and have to agree with you whole heartedly, he is an amazing cook. His grasp of Italian cuisine is unparalleled. He makes the best lasagna I have ever tasted, I still talk about it at the restaurant. Congrats to both Jacob and Victor! We miss you guys!
- Lori, San Francisco, CA-USA, 09/10/2009 13:43
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