Soho is experiencing a restaurant revival. In place of what was Circus, an establishment that never seemed to have much reason for being, is Bob Bob Ricard. It is open daily from breakfast until three in the morning, which by itself is a reason for being. Add to that design by David Collins inspired by train travel in Edwardian times, a chef cognisant of English nursery food, a button to press to alert Nanny to bring the champagne and you have something that at the very least cheers you up.

Russian money is said to be involved and quite a lot of it is apparent in the emerald green leather banquettes topped by little curtains of brass mesh, marble tables, constructivist chandeliers, the curious zoot suits of the male staff, a basement bar floor inlaid like a backgammon board and branding everywhere, including the butter, by BBR in a suitable railway typeface.

In the evening you can eat reasonably by choosing, as we did, eggs mayonnaise (£5.50) followed by Elwy Valley shepherd’s pie — the meat nicely chopped, not minced (£14.50) — or expensively by starting with 30g of caviar (£45) and following that with roasted grouse with traditional accompaniments (£31.75).

I liked my first course of carrot salad with oranges and seeds (an outrageous £9) and prune and Armagnac jelly (£6.50) from a quartet of jellies. The head chef is James Walker, who previously worked at Le Pont de la Tour.

Your own toaster at breakfast and a BBR Full English (£12.75), Ribena and milk (£2.50) as one of the cold drink options, afternoon tea plate (£6.50), Kellogg’s cornflakes (£3) and BBR beef tea (£7.50) after midnight — really, what is there not to like?