Tonight:
5°c
Fay Maschler's rating
New life for Brompton Bar & Grill
By
Fay Maschler
10 Dec 2008
FranÇois O’Neill, son of Hugh O’Neill (aka Lord Rathcavan), is now running what was previously the restaurant St Quentin, named after the late Quentin Crewe who was Hugh O’Neill’s cousin. Got that? Quentin Crewe was deservedly sanctified for his contribution to restaurant reviewing, quite a lot of it for the Evening Standard. I think he would be tickled by the new developments.
What had become a rather staid restaurant has found youthful vigour, clean lines, an appealing straightforward menu and a wine list where you can’t quite believe the prices. Henry Harris, chef/proprietor of the neighbouring Racine, who, having spotted us in the window, joined us for a drink, greeted them with slightly worried praise. In both reds and whites, there are 10 bottles priced between £10 and £20 and at the steeper end are bargains (in restaurant terms) like 2004 La Reserve de Leoville Barton St Julien at £42, a mark-up of not much more than 100 per cent.
To go with such a bottle you might order flat iron steak with chips and béarnaise for £14.50. This cut, aka top blade, sold by Jack O’Shea, an Irish butcher with shops in Brussels and Knightsbridge, is apparently all the go in the steak world. I wasn’t wanting meat, though, and chose skate with browned butter. In the same sort of mood Reg chose baked Portland crab and both dishes, accompanied by a side order of spring greens, were gratifying. It was good to see cauliflower cheese and leek gratin also offered as side dishes.
We had started with Orkney herrings with Anya potatoes and cod brandade with roasted tomatoes. Chef Gary Durrant seems to understand well the detail required in successful simplicity and it extends to the dessert offering, where this often overpriced course is sold at £3.50 for “Pudding Pots”, which include sticky toffee, apple crumble and Trinity burnt cream.
Live jazz piano floated up from the basement dining area. It added to the feeling of happy renaissance of the restaurant I remember my parents liking about 40 years ago when it was called The Brompton Grill.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Reader views (8)
Nice Atmosphere and the food was definetely good. The service was a real pleasure. The wine list is a bit short but of good quality. Excellent choice for a date
- Luca, Bologna, Italy, 30/04/2009 10:39
Report abuse
What a delightful addition to the London restaurant scene. Great ambience, outstanding food and a wine list that is a cornucopia of delights.So many congratulations to the new, youn proprietor. BB&G is a winner.
- Naoimh Fry, Londonderry. Northern Ireland, 28/01/2009 15:22
Report abuse
Check it out - scrumptious food and good atmosphere
- Sooz, London England, 21/01/2009 15:26
Report abuse
Effortlessly charming....this ones a real winner.
- Georgie, London, 21/01/2009 12:21
Report abuse
The food at The Brompton Bar and Grill is just excellent. The house wine, for £10 per bottle, is just superb and I very much enjoyed the cocktails the bar staff made with Brockmans Gin. This is an excellent addition to the neighbourhood and I would commend the management for creating such a superb place for locals.
- Janice Smyth, Knightsbridge, London, 10/01/2009 17:43
Report abuse
If this place was open for breakfast i would probably eat here 3 times a day!
The passion fruit cocktails are also amazing.
Would definitely recogmend it to anyone, young or old.
- Rebecca Davies, London, 11/12/2008 14:50
Report abuse
FINALLY---a lovely local restaurant with a cosy, elegant atmosphere. We ate here after flying back to England on a long transatlantic flight and the food was delicious and comforting on a chilly, damp Sunday afternoon. Service was charming. Wine reasonable ---we will be back--often!
- Lesley Cooke, Knightsbridge, 10/12/2008 18:48
Report abuse
I have known the two previous incarnations of this wonderful place since the early 1980's and lunched there on 8 December with two men. The food was very good as was the service. We started with simple green salads - very fresh with good dressing. My husband had the fish stew which was the best he had ever had, while the other fellow hasd a piece of beef which he demolished along with a serving of chips which were as good as the Brompton Grill's were (same chef, but he was off that day and the sous chef was in charge - you would never have known it). I had cottage pie which was exactly what it should be. We all had little puddings in identical small ramekins each with a little handle - chocolate, burnt sugar (like creme brulee) and sticky toffee. There were other things that tempted us but we couldn't order everything. By the time we left, the place was packed, and we shall return whenever we go to London.
- Tillie Page Laird, Washington Depot, Connecticut, USA, 10/12/2008 13:01
Report abuse
