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Description: The "de luxe" décor may not be to all tastes, but this "formal" Mayfair oriental continues to impress reporters with its "excellent" (if "slightly precious") Chinese fare; "make sure you sit upstairs".
Food:
Service:
Ambience:
Phone: 020 7493 8988
Website: http://www.kaimayfair.com
Open: Mon - Fri 12pm - 2:30pm & 6:30pm - 11pm
Sat 6:30pm - 11pm
Sun 6:30pm - 10:30pm
Dress code: Casual
Good for: Good food, Ambience.
Payment options: All major credit cards accepted
Happy Chinese new year: Kai Mayfair, which has not had a change of chef for quite a few years, has just been awarded its first Michelin star
It is, as of yesterday, the Year of the Ox. What do we know about an ox? It is stubborn. What do we know about the Michelin Guide to Great Britain? It must have been launched in a Year of the Ox.
Having not been particularly impressed by the judgments of the Michelin Guide over the years, the recently published 2009 edition has dragged from me grudging respect. To go on and on blithely ignoring the way the world is going, to, as it were, not notice or acknowledge what customers want from restaurants, and to reward the branded links in the chains owned by big-cheese French chefs because, well, because they are big-cheese French chefs: respect!
A friend who dined last week at Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester (two stars awarded this year with a third in the offing) counted 28 diners, with one table composed of the hotel’s concierges and another hosted by the marketing manager. It is not just the price of eating there that perhaps deflects the following Michelin obviously believes the restaurant deserves — breathlessly it announces in its review that 30,000 (count them) green silk buttons have been used in the design — but it is a highly significant consideration.
Michelin has always pussyfooted around recognition of the worth of ethnic restaurants, despite the fact that in London and the UK they make up a large part of the affordable face of eating out. The few stars they have deigned to sprinkle go to the reassuringly expensive. A new star for a Chinese restaurant this year goes to Kai Mayfair.
One question that springs to mind — as it did about the newly lauded 15-year-old St John — why now? Alex Chow from Kuala Lumpur has been chef at Kai Mayfair for quite a few years and surely not much has changed except maybe prices have soared even higher. Tucked into what must be the worst table for two on the ground floor at the top of a precipitous flight of stairs, Reg and I looked at the menu, looked at each other, listened to the Muzak and lost the will to order.
First courses are priced between £11 for hot and sour soup and £118 for Peking duck in two courses (the skin is topped with foie gras. Yuk). Even crispy beancurd is £25. Fish dishes start at £20 for aubergines stuffed with minced prawns and zoom to £53 for sea bass, Dover sole or lobster. Chicken is cheaper, but then chicken is. Beef is more expensive and the incidentals — vegetables, rice and noodles — all do their level best to inflate the bill. I realise that high price not only reflects the cost of prime ingredients but also for the Chinese provides a sort of frisson, but there were no Chinese customers the evening we dined. The diners there were — how can I put this? — probably not featured in Debrett’s.
Each page of the menu has a mind-numbing essay complete with what seem like faintly bogus historical facts. I can think of so many less pretentious, less expensive and more enjoyable Chinese restaurants in London.
Hot and sour soup was good but not, as suggested in the menu notes, the best we’d ever tried. Shanghai glass noodles with shredded chicken was subtly dressed but, at £13, the biggest smile must have been on the face of whoever calculates margins. Braised chicken Peking was reminiscent of lemon chicken and had someone told me that the pieces of protein were fish, I would have believed them. Chilean sea bass fillet with chopped snow leaf and shrimp crumble was a notable dish, impressive for its texture as well as its delicate taste.
You have probably guessed by now that wine prices are not a bargain. One list simply shows grands crus. However, wines by the glass are not greedily priced. If you believe in Michelin, you might want to experience the restaurant they rate alongside Hakkasan and Yauatcha. If you believe in Chinese astrology, you can meet Ting-Foon Chick at Kai Mayfair on the evenings of 31 January and 5 February.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Dear B Otter,
many thanks for your comments. To clarify, your recognition of my tone is somewhat mistaken. I am not in the employ of Kai Mayfair and whilst I am a regular of the restaurant, its only because i enjoy the food, atmosphere and service as much as I do. your comments about the complimentary tea would mean if you were to buy a BMW you would expect the leather seats to be thrown in. This is just simply not the case. Kai has its own unique flavours and for an ethinic restaurant I think they do a pretty good job of staying true to its cuisine. Moreover, to be honoured with a star, not only does the cuisine have to be superb but the atmosphere and service. Kai in my view hits each of these 3 criterion spot on. i suggest you stop quibbing about the prices and take in the restaurant for what it is as a whole and still challenge a comparision to be found in London.
- Ajay Mirpuri, London, UK
Firstly, the comment from Ajay smacks heartily of being from an employee at this restaurant - I recognise the tone...or at least of a regular and 'favoured' diner...
Plus chocolate and chinese tea are indeed a great way to end an 'email', but at these prices I'd want a damn site more than that to consider them 'complimentary'.
I would also suggest that Ajay ought to broaden their horizons when it come to dining on Chinese cuisine - you will find there are far superior restaurants in terms of authentic flavour than Kai.
I wouldn't worry too much about the wine either - try sticking to Chinese beverages or a French white with a good minerality.
- B Otter, Suffolk, UK
Dear Fay,
Thank you for your dedication to the culinary delights (and disasters) of the Capital and I really do respect your view in most of your columns. I do find your review of Kai somewhat out of proportion though and felt I had to comment as a regular supporter of this fantastic Chinese restaurant.
Whilst, I agree that that the prices may be on the higher side, the value for money is incredible. The portions are generous and the tastes so distinctive that their duck can be identified even through a blind tasting. The wasabi prawns are to die for and the peppercorn lamb is memorable for all the right reasons. Its ambiance is in keeping with its Mayfair surroundings and both their regular and premier wine lists provide a choice for everyone from the novice to the connoisseur. Where they do fall short is in their choice of deserts but I understand that too is being improved. The complimentary chocolates and chinese tea though are a great way to end your email in any case. The service is friendly and polite and whilst I recognize the table you were given wasn’t ideal for a first timer perhaps, I find it perfect if I wanted to have business conversation away from the crowd. I invite you and your husband to return as my guests to see what I (and finally Michelin) have recognized as a wonderfully fantastic Chinese restaurant that stands apart from the over priced and undercooked establisments that claim to serve the same food. With warm wishes for the year of the Ox.
- Ajay Mirpuri, London, UK
