After hearing the magnificent Anna Caterina Antonacci singing Monteverdi — be still my beating heart — at Wigmore Hall, we went to Il Baretto in Blandford Street which, like Mosaico/Dolada, seems to have changed its name (from Giusto) without a noticeable difference in the ownership.

Certainly I remember the charming, enthusiastic manager Tomasa from the previous regime and the wood-fired oven still sits in the rather featureless — apparently soon to be improved — basement dining room. Pizza alla diavola from the “forno” was not as impressive as I remember from Giusto days but other dishes were commendably well executed and the value is good.

Spaghetti con astice (with lobster) at £15 was in fact an improvement on the same dish tried at Zafferano not long ago. Razor-thin slices of cold suckling pig with a ruff of leaves made a fine first-course salad and deep-fried squid and slender batons of courgette were crisp and dry. Sauté of clams and mussels was much enjoyed; lamb cutlets flavoured with garlic and rosemary grilled over charcoal, ditto.

We were sold down on the wine list — to a muscular Bisceglia Aglianico del Vulture at £21 — a tactic which these days induces, as did the wine, a warm glow.