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Fay Maschler's rating
Portobello Ristorante Pizzeria measures up
By
Fay Maschler
14 May 2009
What do you do when a very large man, seemingly rendered speechless with drink, sits down at your restaurant table and starts to help himself from a bowl of potatoes wood-roasted with rosemary and garlic that you ordered as part of a spread of small dishes to start? At the newly opened Portobello you shrug, you go with the flow, you hope the waiters will move him on (they did) because here sharing is the ethos that burns as brightly as the fire in the pizza oven.
Started by Andrea Ippolito and Franco Ferro, two chaps from Sorrento who met while working in London, Portobello offers as one of the highlights Pizzametro — pizza by the metre — which they claim was created 40 years ago in Vico Equense, a small town on the Sorrento coast, as a means for a whole family to share a pizza. Since that time, they say, it has become a symbol of conviviality and a way of bringing people together.
The pizza, which can be ordered by the half or whole metre, is covered widthways in stripes of different ingredients so that members of a family — or a group of customers — can select their favourite bits. Wary of what I believe to be the lowering effect of melted cheese, I am not a great fan of pizza, but so crisp, thin, scorched and shardy, verging on volcanic was the base, so sweet and sunny the tomatoes used in the topping that I kept eating more of what, first time round, had been ordered as a kind of side dish. Apparently Franco Ferro, pizzaiolo, has in the past made a three-metre pizza for Jim Davidson. I dare say he would do the same for you and yours.
The restaurant occupies a site that was once the Greek/Cypriot restaurant Savvas but has been idle for the past few years. A deep courtyard is an asset — just about coming into its own as May sunshine drags its feet — and among the outdoor tables is a refrigerated boat displaying fresh fish. Although a cliché of Mediterranean seaside resorts, the toy boat and its contents, presumably sourced from Billingsgate or local suppliers, is more alluring than the catch from nets thrown into the Bay of Naples would be.
Inside, the wooden tables are designed for groups of friends sharing. This is not a Noah’s Ark where humans going in two-by-two are likely to get the best outcome. On both evenings we visited a noticeable, voluble proportion of the clientele was Italian. Knowledge of the language comes in handy when staff struggle with the scraps of paper that are the bookings system.
Antipasti and gli sfizietti (small dishes) provide scope for grazing. We liked the hot salt and peppery frittura of prawns and squid served with garlic mayonnaise and deep-fried mozzarella balls with spicy tomato sauce although one or two were not as molten inside as they could have been. The wood-roasted potatoes would have been improved by use of a waxier, more flavourful variety. We didn’t begrudge our new friend his share.
The section of pasta dishes is embellished by a list of specials. Sophia Loren has said about herself, “Everything you see I owe to pasta.” Linguine Sophia Loren featured sea bass as the main ingredient in the sauce, which I somehow feel might take Sophia by surprise, but the recipient thought it excellent. The plate was scraped clean.
From main courses cooked on the “charcoil [sic] grille”, tagliata (sliced grilled Scottish entrecote served with rocket and Parmesan shavings) and polletto al mattone (char-grilled baby chicken flattened under a brick) were good and agreeably unsurprising. More novel was Italian sausage made on the premises slit down its length and stuffed with smoked provola cheese. Well, I’ve made my feelings on melted cheese clear already. A sea bass brought in from the boat on the terrace and simply grilled was described as “just what was wanted”.
Cakes and patisserie are baked in the cooling wood-fired oven. Torta Limoncello and torta cioccolato were admirably restrained in sweetness, light and lyrical and on both evenings came as a gift. The staff at Portobello, particularly the owners and manager Massimo (short for Massimiliano he told us), seem truly to enjoy their work. Andrea and Franco are visibly thrilled to have, at last, a place of their own.
Glasses of Prosecco and shots of Limoncello are handed out to all and sundry. The result is a jolly restaurant. “It is so rare that restaurants are fun,” said one of my companions wistfully as she began making plans to bring groups of friends to this new source of satisfaction in Notting Hill. Our tablemate, the potato pincher, had wandered off into the night.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Reader views (16)
What a disgrace! A very unpleasant dining experience due to poor service. We waited too long to be served, from our initial bottle of wine, to coffees and desert. The waiters were rude and unfriendly. We were served by almost every waiter in the restaurant which added to the confusion. The pizza was average at best, unless you enjoy a pizza consisting almost entirely of crust. "Glasses of Prosecco and shots of Limoncello being handed out"...you must be kidding, you would be struggling to order them let alone get them given to you.
Overrater, overpriced and unfriendly. Look elsewhere for a more authentic and enjoyable experience.
- S & P, London, 19/07/2010 09:14
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Wonderful and cute restaurant serving delicious food. We had pizza, starters and wine and all of it was very tasty.I've read some negative reviews on the waiting staff who were apparently rude, slow and unattentive..but the contrary is true. We had fast sevice and smiley waiter. A lot of my friends dine in this restaurant regularly and never complained. I'd highly recommend it.
- Petra, London, 17/01/2010 21:22
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i go by the standard it is my bible to eating out however i wonder somewhat why you have never published a reveiw on the brilliant white hart hotel and bar in stow on the wold the heart of the cotswolds i have just had 4 fab days there and they put lots of our london eateries to shame the chef worked as andrew lloyd webbers personal chef...no meam feat i bet.. he was also the king of saudis chef to name but a few. it is a brilliant place i saw robert hardy ther and annie boyd palph laurens right hand designer, this i know as i write for a mag myself..the fish is a daily delivery from cornwall, the goodies in room are daylesford and the waiters are the best looking guys youve ever seen...come on standard move out of london and reveiw some good pubs who never fail to deliver are consistant and nothing is too much trouble..the owners work it so know what they want and deliver everytime....go get em
- Mandy Moorish, kentish town, 17/01/2010 20:22
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ps. no free preseco and limoncello handed out either. must have wrong face! also no dessert, except one cake, and ice cream, and no sorbet! strange for an itialian rest. not to have at least sorbet.
- Phil - 22, london - chelsea, 17/01/2010 20:22
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went on sunday night
rude service from the start, asked for table of one, and the server looked at me as if i had asked for something innapropiate. i was then stuck on an offshoot near the till, away from the main floor. the food was ok, bread, dry and tough, almost like its a day or two old. they were out of the starrted i wanted, so had the calamari and parwns, nice and fresh, but they had left the shells on the prawns, and as it was in a light batter, had to peel it off, very messy
The pizza, whilst large with nice toppings, parma ham and rocket etc. the base was burnt and bitter, which ruined the taste, and completely over shadowed the flavour
during eating the servers congregated around my table, chatting and joking around, along with this one even rolled up a cigarette at my table. not pleasent
no contact from the servers throughout the meal, despite as a single customer I spent 25 pounds. they seem to think you dont deserve service, but still charged me the service charge on the bill, without asking me
maybe it was because i had just come from the chelsea game, and was wearing a hoddie and coat. however i took this off in the restaraunt and had a smart pair of jeans, ralphy polo shirt on, and a £4k rolex, but they still looked down on me
really need to work on treating customers, cant judge a book by its cover
wouldnnt go again, maybe only recommend to familys who wear burberry, maybe then you get good service, if you flash your wealth around
one annoyed city boy!
- Phil - 22, london - chelsea, 17/01/2010 20:22
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my favourite restaurant. food has always been delicious- brilliant fresh pasta, and really friendly/down to earth atmosphere
- Rosanna Boone, london, 17/01/2010 20:22
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Hey ES! What happened to my review of this restaurant which I have posted over 10 days ago?!?
- Marco, Notting hill, 17/01/2010 20:22
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Where I found the taste of my country
- Claudio, Rome, Italy, 17/01/2010 20:22
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Pizzas with different flavours so families can choose their favourite bits. I hate to inform Fay, but Pizza Hut has been doing this for yonks. I'm waiting for one of these Chelsea eateries to launch a cheese stuffed crust in a fanfare to a credulous south west London audience. What next - all you can eat ice cream? (Yeah, Pizza Hut been there, done that)
- Tony Mcmahon, London, UK, 17/01/2010 20:22
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Mandy, the clue is in the name: 'London' Evening Standard.
- Paul, London Fields, 17/01/2010 20:22
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Last night me and my family went to eat at the restaurant, I have disability on walking but since I was outside the restaurant I have been helped to get in, they showed me the side entrance which is perfect for a weal cheer.
The manager in charge tuck as to the table, the restaurant was full but we had a table waiting 5 minutes.
We made the order and we started with Marinara pizza (pizza base with tomato and garlic) for all of as (4 people)
The pizza was very testy, and then we had Parmiggiana and Calamari fritti. We noticed than the test of the Calamari was absolutely fresh, the only time I get this test was back in Italy, the Parmiggiana was just as mamma make.
My dad has problem with diabetes so he can’t eat many thinks, we told to the waiter and he been asked if he will like a stake.
We had Spaghetti Nerano and Linguine Vongole, The presentation and the test were fantastic, the stack was very tender and prepared in a way that my dad were impressed.
We had desert, coffee and lemoncello.
We had a fantastic time and an excellent service.
I will love to add something that for me is amazing, the owner of the place helping in the kitchen and make sure that costumers were happy, I haven’t see no one complaining and all of the costumer were happy to be there.
When we left the place starting from the owner to the waiter we had a big smile on the way out, I have been helped to get out from the restaurant
I RACCOMANDE THIS PLACE TO THE ENTIRE PERSON THE READ THIS REVIEW.
- Batman, London, 17/01/2010 20:22
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Ciao Ragazzi,
The best Mediterranean cuisine ,excellent professional cook.
The Pizza very gooooooooooddd
Ciao ragazzi
- Claudio & Anna, LONDON, 17/01/2010 20:22
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W la Pizza !! When i come to London i 'll try your pizza.
- Andrea, Padova (Italy), 17/01/2010 20:22
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"Pseudo-mediterranean cuisine": guys I don't mean to be offensive to the cook who probably is an excellent professional but as far as health is concerned..I mean look at the Pizza in the picture this is not for everyone......too much cheese I suggest the slice be more topped with vegetables ....cut the grease,keep an easy waist......
And.
- And., S, 17/01/2010 20:22
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Sounds divine, will definitely make a visit here!!!
- Linda Harries, London, 17/01/2010 20:22
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Andrea and Franco, congratulations on opening what sounds to be exactly what you had envisioned. It would appear that all of the hard work (and dust) was well worth it. All the very best.
- Max Durack, St. Kilda (Australia), 17/01/2010 20:22
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