Morning:
13°c
London faces a wave of bus and Tube strikes that could cause chaos for millions of passengers as unions walkout over pay and conditions
More...
An awesome and ridiculous film that leaves you thrilled beyond the point of your natural endurance
2012
Theatre
The show has suddenly become quite wonderful, and the galvanising factor is the terrific stage debut of Melanie C
Blood Brothers
Music
The British pop music industry may be eating itself but if Muse are the pick of what it can offer the world in 2010 then British music is in rude health indeed
Muse
I was smitten by both Gilberts enormous luxuriant moustache and the intelligence and nuance of this highly entertaining play
I totally recommend Babbo to anyone who is looking for really good and traditional Italian food
Always been a fan but never seen them live. I was ecstatic to be part of this epic event. WOW!
London,
Critic rating
Reader rating
Phone: 020 7352 1645
Website: http://www.thespiritgroup.com
What the punters like: The Cadogan Arms in Chelsea is Tom and Ed Martin’s latest foray into the gastropub market
The names Tom and Ed Martin probably won’t ring a bell, but if you’re a well-heeled Eastender who likes their grub, chances are you’ve eaten in one of their pubs.
Their gastro-empire already stretches from Clerkenwell (The Hat And Tun) to Docklands (The Gun) and Sloane Square (The Botanist). Now they’ve taken hold of this restored 19th-century Chelsea boozer and are already up for a Time Out eating award. Perhaps that high expectation counts against them, because although we thoroughly enjoyed our dinner, it wasn’t really worth crossing London for.
The interior is all exposed brick, cosy wooden tables and quirky stuffed animals, while the head chef was poached from Guy Ritchie’s Punch Bowl in Mayfair and clearly knows what the punters like.
Main courses are all familiar faves: mushroom risotto, cheeseburger, steak and fat chips. As for starters, a Dorset crab bisque (£6) tasted slightly like hot water, but we had no quibbles with a velvety Dexter beef carpaccio with horseradish dressing (£6.50). Chicken Caesar salad (£11.50) can often be little more than a big plate of lettuce, but here you got a mountain of chicken and crispy pancetta. Welsh lamb rack (£15.50) was less tempting on the eye with its pretentious presentation, but the cutlets were delicious — perhaps that’s why getting only two seemed stingy.
Lightly spiced plum and apple crumble (£5) came with a small jug of custard, while a dark Valrhona chocolate tart (£5) got a ball of more-ish espresso ice cream. It may not be destination dining, but if I were a local I’d embrace The Cadogan with gusto.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
