Afternoon:
21°c
Fay Maschler's rating
Jamie's Italian is true to its essence
By
Fay Maschler
29.07.10
It was 8.15pm last Friday evening. The girl on the desk said that the wait for a table would be about two hours. Reader, I have to confess I reached into my wallet for a business card. Well, I was tired, Reg was tired, I had this review to write. The manager nodded but to give him his due, we still waited a while, benefiting from the breads, olives and charcuterie passed around to keep the queue docile.
I don’t believe it is just the name and fame of Jamie Oliver that packs them in. The dishes perhaps described too possessively and exuberantly — in that way that parents sometimes try to coax children to eat — are simply true to their essence; fresh, seemingly healthy and fairly priced. I watched carefully and everyone around us was treated by the staff in the same affably courteous way we were. And everyone likes Italian food.
Crispy squid “with really garlicky mayo” and courgette fritti “with the creamiest whipped chickpea, anchovy, caper and parsley dressing” were both meticulously fried in clean oil without a whisper of greasiness. A bit more salt would have galvanised the dressing.
“Beautiful” bucatini carbonara with the addition of courgette ribbons to the egg, cheese and pancetta sauce fulfilled its description except that spaghetti would have been nicer than wormy bucatini.
Chargrilled chop-steak beefburger as tall as a Sir Norman Foster building was much appreciated and immaculately trimmed lamb-chop lollipops cooked with a little pinkness at the centre under a brick and served with three dips were a marvel for £13.95. Jamie’s “favourite humble green salad” needed more dressing ie more assertiveness.
Only the dessert we shared of Amalfi lemon curd was disappointing; too stodgy.
Jamie has demonstrated that a mid-price chain can be lovable and gratifying. “He is a scholar and a gentleman,” said Reg. PS. As we left at about 9.30pm tables were becoming almost immediately available.
10 Upper St Martin’s Lane WC2 (020 3326 6390). Open daily noon-11.30pm. No reservations. A meal for two with wine, about £70 exc service.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Reader views (4)
If you have a review to write, you should reserve in advance - Alex Wolff
Except they do not take bookings at this restaurant...otherwise I agree, no need to flaunt your queue jumping abilities in your reviews!
- Maria, London, 09/08/2010 16:59
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So, one of the shock conclusions from this review is that the restaurant's staff serve tables well (when they know there is a critic at the next table) and the food is well prepared... I wonder if anyone other than the head chef prepared your food.
If you have a review to write, you should reserve in advance - not jump the queue of other people waiting and spoil the impartiality of the review in the process.
I hope you at least had your wrists slapped by the editor for this.
- Alex Wolff, London, 04/08/2010 16:47
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This is not the first time I have heard a tale like this about Ms Maschler, although I have to say generally the stories emanate from within the industry. At the end of it all, individual tastes differ, so why anyone would rely on somebody else for their restaurant choices is beyond me.
- Stephen Bradley, London, UK, 31/07/2010 12:59
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Ok, I do not like too much of Jamie, actually he is trying to do a good think for the children in this country but from this review I’m really amazed to see "who do you think you are Mrs Fay Maschler?"
"I reached into my wallet for a business card." what is this all about, you are more important than all customers waiting for a table? You suppose to be reviewing fairly not getting advantage of your position. This is why critics will soon lose their jobs for bloggers.
Good luck to the restaurateurs that do not know the BIG SHOT Mrs Fay, you will get a bad review, but if you know or if BIG SHOT Fay get the business card, ok it will be reviewed.
What a shame to read such a comment and review.
- Raphael Duprat, London, Uk, 29/07/2010 18:02
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