Sweet service earns Cantina Laredo its only star
By
Fay Maschler
29 Jul 2010
If asked for the definition of the word oxymoron, “gourmet Mexican” might do it. At this British-owned franchise of an American conglomerate, which makes that very claim, you would never discover that Mexican food, when regionally based and freshly made, does have its merits. Try Wahaca nearby for a glimpse of the possibilities.
After picking at tiger prawn flautas — I thought that was the effect of re-fried beans — my companion said “I’m not going to hold this against you”.
When we then shared carnitas, described as braised pork shanks with chipotle wine sauce, he added, “I can’t remember a meal this bad.”
Even the margaritas seemed phoney.
The one star is for the sweet and smiling service from Carole.
10 Upper St Martin’s Lane WC2(020 7420 0630). Open daily noon-11.30pm (midnight Fri & Sat, 10.30pm Sun). No reservations. A meal for two with wine, about £100 including 12.5 per cent service.
Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.
Reader views (17)
I don’t usually write reviews but I feel compelled after dining at Cantina Laredo. I’m from New York City and have been to my fair share of Mexican restaurants – some low end, some high and everything in between, and I have to say that my only regret is that as I live in NYC, I’m unable to frequent Cantina as I choose. From the minute you walk in you are greeted in such a gracious way, you can feel yourself unwind. The ambience is right on and the waitstaff are attentive but never make you feel as though they are on top of you. We were seated and immediately given salsa and chips – perfect margaritas were not far behind. The guacamole – made at your table – was outstanding and a great way to start off. Everything on the menu sounded so delicious, I had a hard time choosing, but finally went with the chicken breast stuffed with tiger prawns – it was truly fantastic. After our meal we didn’t have much room for dessert but refused to leave without sharing the Churros and they were well worth it!! Cantina is a very enjoyable restaurant run by people who clearly got it right - cannot recommend this place enough, and it will definitely be on my schedule when I return.
- Lisa, New York City, USA, 31/07/2011 23:00
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The food at this restaurant is terrible. I have eaten at 100's of London restaurants, and my experience at Cantina Loredo was one of the worst. Tasteless, overpriced food. The side salad looked like a tin of that Green Giant sweetcorn with peppers that is available at the Tesco down the road. The booking process was awful too - we had to make a £100 deposit to reserve a table for 10, and were told that on the night if we were 15 minutes late they would give our table away.
Go to Rossopomodoro opposite. Yes, it is Italian, but the food is a million times better than the pathetic offerings at this place.
- Jennifer, London, UK, 20/03/2011 23:10
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If you follow food blogs as I do you will find all you need to know about this awful restaurant. Threatening legal action because of negative reviews! Not a good sign...
Some reviews have had to be removed because of Cantina Laredo's bullying tactics. I've been there and it's an absolutely shocking restaurant with awful food.
- Andi, London, 24/02/2011 01:38
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I used to live in London and the main thing I missed about the US was the Mexican food. When I returned to the city recently I discovered Cantina Laredo. Wow, I was home at the salsa, Great margaritas and food is outstanding.
The service is true USA, where waitstaff make a pound an hour and have to work pleasantly for their livelihood.
I find it amazing that this English reviewer who probably doesn't know her taco from a frijole would so denigrate a great fun, kind, delicious experience.
From one who knows Mexican...go to Cantina Laredo!
- Cornelia, Houston, Texas USA, 15/01/2011 03:22
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I came across this restaurant on a Friday night. Excellent customer service, great atmosphere. The margarita was huge and its taste delightful. Let's not talk about the main meal...to die for...I would have licked the plate if I could. Dessert was sizzling at the table and absolutely very tasty. I will definitely go back again and I highly recommend it.
- PM Scaturro, London UK, 30/09/2010 19:35
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I came across this restaurant on a Friday night. Excellent customer service, great atmosphere. The margarita was huge and its taste delightful. Let's not talk about the main meal...to die for...I would have licked the plate if I could. Dessert was sizzling at the table and absolutely very tasty. I will definitely go back again and I highly recommend it.
- PM Scaturro, London UK, 30/09/2010 19:34
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I came across this restaurant on a Friday night. Excellent customer service, great atmosphere. The margarita was huge and its taste delightful. Let's not talk about the main meal...to die for...I would have licked the plate if I could. Dessert was sizzling at the table and absolutely very tasty. I will definitely go back again and I highly recommend it.
- PM Scaturro, London UK, 30/09/2010 19:33
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I live in the USA and have been to several locations in Florida, and it is fine. But I have been to many more upscale Mexican Restaurants in NYC and Miami.
- Matt, Boca Raton, FL, 16/08/2010 03:09
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I can not disagree with Faye more, after having travelled over 100 miles to visit this restaurant we were impressed by the cleanliness of all areas, the friendliness of the staff and the superb service that we received, now to get onto the food, all 4 of us found it extremley palatible with variant piquancy of tastes, each course complemented the previous one and the coffee (that was mine)rounded of the meal nicely.for the 2 men in the party the margaritas went down a treat and this showed with them stagering back to the train station. I hasten to add we will definately be back !!!
- Rae, Ipswich, 10/08/2010 21:23
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As a lover of mexican cuisine and a lover of mexico, I unfortunately have to agree with Fays comments....The restaurant is awful, a pre made concept from the US that fails at every level!....Its overpriced and the food is awful for the price, My wife had a cranberry and pecan salad that was simply terrible!...I being a vegetarian had a mushroom enchilada that was worse than a supermarket version!!..
Service is too intrusive and I felt like I was at a market being bombarded by Special offers!!...stick to wahaca folks
- Richard, London, 01/08/2010 14:22
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I agree that Ms Maschler's comment about the definition of 'gourmet Mexican' as an
oxymoron is cringeworthy. It is the height of arrogance to imply that a great country with a infinitely long and amazing culture (which predates English culture) is incapable of haute
cuisine. I have reviewed Cantina Laredo and we had problems in some areas, but the food was certainly not one of them.
Suggesting that Wahaca and Mexican food are inextricably linked and must be made according to a prescription of "regionally based and freshly made" is fine and noble in principle, but I would note that even Wahaca call what they produce "Mexican street food" and although their food can be good, the style and atmosphere of Wahaca - too loud to remain for a meal last time I was at the Covent Garden branch - is very different to that of Cantina Laredo.
Try Suspiro y Suspiro in Madrid, if you get the chance. It is a superb example of "alta cocina mexicana" and demonstrates that Wahaca should not be a point of reference for any discussion of gourmet Mexican food.
We enjoyed Cantina Laredo, found the service to be excellent and the food to have been prepared with real care and consideration. Like others commenting here, we will certainly be returning. It's this review that leaves a bad taste in the mouth.
- Perran Von Hoehen, Viscount's Table, London UK, 31/07/2010 14:48
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I've eaten at Cantina Laredo three times now, and I'm astounded by this review. It's like Fay Maschler ate at a different restaurant to me. I've had the carnitas and thought they were fantastic, and the margaritas are TO DIE FOR!
I'm also a fan of Wahaca, but you can't really compare the two restaurants and that's the most surprising thing about this. Wahaca's great for quick 'street' food, but Cantina Laredo is in a different league altogether. It's more about sitting down and having a long and enjoyable meal with good food and drinks.
All I can say is that I'd thoroughly recommend Cantina Laredo and that I'm really disappointed to read such a misleading and badly considered review from someone who I've previously respected.
- Suzanne Miles, London, UK, 31/07/2010 10:54
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I have now been to Cantina Laredo three times and I cannot disagree with Fay Maschler more strongly. It doesn't look like I'm the only one either.
- James Clark, London, 30/07/2010 12:26
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I have read Fay Mschler's review and, like other writers, was disappointed at the anti-Mexican stance which set the scene of what was to follow. This was not her usual voice. And, in keeping with this, I have to say that her review of Cantina Laredo did not equate at all to my recent experience. The food and flavours were excellent,and seemed authentic. My daughter and our guest loved the margaritas, and we were surrounded by packed tables with clearly very happy diners, few of whom appeared to be tourists. Perhaps, like me, these diners had read the blogs and picked out those writers who clearly knew their mexican food - and who were unstinting in their praise of Cantina Laredo. If my night was typical, and I had the freshly made guacamole and the fish of the day (and then watched enviously whilst my daughter delved into the sizzling brownie), then London's diners have already spoken and Cantina is a hit. We'll definitely be heading back.
- Lindsey, London, 30/7/2010, 30/07/2010 12:10
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I am very confused as I have been to Cantina 4 times now - for very different occasions and always had great service, some superb food and a most enjoyable time. The Ceviche is probably one of the best disches you will have anywhere and the Fillet steak would even make the likes of Gaucho jealous. As for the margharitas maybe Maschler does not like Tequila cause she is blatantly anti-american and does not like Mexican food.... this I feel is most un-British especialy for a journalist. Furthermore comparing Wahaca to Cantina is like comparing KFC to Nando's - different price points, length of stay and occasion.
I would suggest that this restaurant is worth a try and an experience most people would love..
- Jonny - local businessman, London, UK, 30/07/2010 09:40
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The service was a little too attentive on my visit; too imposing on the meal.
The guacamole made at the table was tasty and the dessert was a highlight.
The mains were awful. Dry, clearly reheated chicken was accompanied by bland sauces. I've had microwaved enchiladas that were better than this.
I could say it was far too expensive for what it is, but really I wouldn't pay for the main again at any price.
Stick to Wahaca and save your money and your tastebuds.
- Pete, London, 30/07/2010 09:22
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Ms Maschler insults Mexican food in the first few words of this utterly inaccurate review and then proceeds to opine on it -- ignorantly. Cantina Laredo is the finest upscale Tex-Mex restaurant in London, sitting alongside Mestizo in Euston, which is more traditional in its approach to Mexican food but sits in a less fun area. Both are terrific restaurants and here to satisfy the cravings of the Mexican and US expat communities and those enlightened British who actually have travelled to Mexico and Texas. If Maschler doesn't like or know Mexican food, and she obviously doesn't understand it at all, perhaps she should refrain from reviewing it. Incidentally, the attempted joke around the word flautas is clumsy and offensive, if only mildly so. Just go to Cantina Laredo, order the Mango Margarita frozen and tuck into some lovely brisket tacos!
- Marco the Half Mexicano, London, UK, 29/07/2010 20:39
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