London,

Otto

Description: Otto is a pizzeria that uses cornmeal crusts in their pizza

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Chepstow Road, London, W2 5BH

Phone: +44 (0) 20 7792 4088

Website: http://www.ottopizza.co.uk

Transport: Royal Oak

Cuisine: Other

New direction: ex-bankers Tom Freeman and Rich Thomson, Otto’s owners

American-style pizza can be summed up relatively quickly: Domino’s — stuffed crusts and toppings overload. So news of the UK’s first American cornmeal crust pizza joint opening in Notting Hill sounded dubious. Broadly speaking, over in the States they favour bulging, doughy pizzas, while Italians prefer the opposite. Otto — started two months ago by two ex-bankers — offers something in between.

Last Sunday night, the paper plate supply for takeaway orders had run out and locals were rushing home to collect their own china plates, anxious not to lose their place in line. At the same time on Monday, it was dimly lit by tealight candles, 10 other diners sat at wooden tables and we were greeted by a chirpy waitress who was at ours in minutes with tap water and an introduction to Otto.

Cornmeal (polenta) is a flour made from ground dried corn and, when mixed with wheat flour, makes a fairly hefty pizza base. So, on the advice of our waitress, three of us chose just four slices and salad to share.

Unfortunately, the fig and pancetta special which had lured us in had run out. Not a good start, especially as they had also run dry of Pinot Grigio, leaving us with soft Fentman’s cloudy lemonade and a Portuguese rosé — Quinta da Falorca, 2009 (in fact, perfectly crisp).

The walnut and blue cheese salad came promptly, was mounded high and nicely dressed, if a little tangy. But the pizza was the biggest surprise: each pie-like slice had a springy base and a textured, crunchy crust. Pesto and ricotta was moreish, sausage and fennel was rich but interesting, and olive tapenade (another special) was nicely salty, as tapenade always is, but delicious. Aubergine was the only disappointment, being rather bland, but perhaps because we ate it last when the cornmeal had almost defeated us.

Our broccoli salad, when it finally arrived, was fussy and we’d have been better off with a mixed green. Happily, our final choices of hazelnut affogato, homemade jaffa slice with orange and mascarpone cream, then Pimm’s and Sangria sorbets (with a genuine Pimm’s taste) for dessert were a flavoursome finish.

As long as it stays away from those stuffed crusts and stocks up on paper plates, pancetta and Pinot Grigio, Otto will keep its queues.

Details are correct at the time of publication - please check with venue before booking.