Welcome to the drinkers' shopping mall. I use the word 'welcome' somewhat cautiously as the small army of thugs on the door aren't the most receptive greeters in town. But, as was pointed out to me, this is a venue for the over-25s, so I forgive them their hesitation in allowing me access.

This is Piccadilly Circus, and we are in the Pavilion - a 20,000sqft, 1,500-capacity colossus designed for people who like to frequent Piccadilly Circus. We have eight bars, each with its own identifiable theme, each with its own individual atmosphere - some have the feel of Sleepy Lodge Motel on the M6, others look like they ran out of money in the construction process. But more importantly, this is a place designed for those who enjoy loitering around Piccadilly Circus, even though the press release describes the venue as having 'something for everyone', which I guess means they're referring to people from the far-flung reaches of civilisation.

Having said that, I did find one room, the Booth Bar, that didn't offend the senses too much. The views over Piccadilly Circus are, well, views over Piccadilly Circus, but the booths can be booked, which will come in very useful for your hen-night hoolies. Unusually for a jokey theme bar of this nature, the cocktails (£4.75) are excellent and the wine list is short but cleverly thought out. I was surprised, nay staggered, to find Nick Joan Blanq working behind one of the bars, who is probably one of the most underrated bartenders in London and, sadly for Onanon, will undoubtedly be snapped up by one of the cocktail operations in due course.

With good drinks and happy hours until 7.30pm - half-price wine and spirits, £10 off a bottle of champagne - you have a more than reasonable deal on your hands. As a general rule I try not to insult my body by buying anything within a 100-metre radius of Piccadilly Circus, but the snack menu here isn't half bad. A small bowl of mini bangers and mash (£4.50) was agreeable, it's difficult to make a dog's dinner out of a plate of Spanish cured meat tapas (£4.25), and there's a long menu of other snacks (£2.25-£5.50) available on a special deal of three for £8.95.

If you enjoy trawling the shallow waters of culture and sophistication, then this could be worth a look. My only worry about the location is that nothing tends to last very long around these parts.