A hop and a skip from Brussels and Mechelen (20 miles and 15 miles respectively) the perpetual student in you will take to Leuven like a garden slug to beer. Oh, talking of beer... actually, we'll come to that in a minute. First, what’s the place like? Well, Leuven is Belgium's oldest university town, having received its charter in 1425 (for the scholars among you, alumni include the 15th-century essayist and humanist Erasmus and the 16th-century Flemish cartographer Gerardus Mercator).
But never mind the history – what that strong and proud university heritage means today is a vibrant and cosmopolitan city, more than half of whose 90,000 residents are students, the Oxford or Cambridge of Flanders, if you like. As a result, the city has possible the most relaxed and bohemian air of any Belgian city – and the prices are pretty keen, as a bonus.
- Take in the sights – and sites
Lovers of art and architecture will find that in Leuven all roads lead
to Grote Markt. Here, you’ll find St-Pieterskerk and the
Stadhuis, two medieval gems that are worth making the trip for in
their own right.
The Stadhuis is the more whimsical of the two, an elegant piece characterised by sophisticated pinnacles and a delicacy that marks it out from much of the heavier Gothic architecture found in Flanders. The money ran out in 1460, so if you think the statues seen in the building’s niches look remarkably well preserved, that’s because they weren’t added until the middle of the 19th century.
Though apparently a typical Gothic building, with buttresses and an imposing appearance, little of St-Pieterskerk dates back to the original church of the 1420s, much of it being built in the 16th and 17th centuries. Check out the pulpit, with an engraving showing St Norbert being struck by lightning while riding his horse in the 12th century – a close shave that led him to turn to the life contemplative, founding a religious order.
Perhaps the greatest treasure in Leuven, though, is the Groot Begijnhof, a beguinage. Virtually unique to Belgium, these were similar to convents, except that the women who lived here in pursuit of a contemplative life were not required to take perpetual vows and were allowed to keep their property outside, should they decide to return to their former lives. To walk through the cobbled streets of the Begijnhof is to step back through the centuries, and the air of seclusion and tranquillity is maintained today as the buildings have been given over to the University as accommodation for students and professors.- Phew! Thirsty work – time for a beer
As explained on the main page, Leuven is for aficionados of the
amber nectar, synonymous with beer. Since 1366 home to Stella
Artois (as it’s known these days), there are also hundreds of local
brews to be savoured here.
Oude Markt is a buzzing town square, often described as the 'longest bar in the world'. It's rammed with residents and tourists alike who rub along just fine, drinking and chatting till the small hours. Virtually all the mercantile townhouses in the square are bars these days. It's here you'll find the micro-brewery and pub Domus, where pipelines lead straight from the vat to the glass – short of jumping in the vat, you won’t find a fresher pint anywhere.
With more than 178 restaurants and 241 cafes, you won't be stuck for a bite to eat, either. The university town has an inspectorate of eating, so you can be sure what you tuck into will be the fairest fare - and with all those students around, prices are scrupulously fair, to boot.- Soak up the vibe
If you're lucky enough to visit at the beginning of July, just five
miles away is the town of Werchter, famous for its outdoor
festival Rock Werchter. The line-up for 2008 includes
Babyshambles, Duffy, Kaiser Chiefs, Mark Ronson, Mika, Moby,
Neil Young, Radiohead, The Verve and Underworld, making it a
festival to rival Glastonbury. And in August Marktrock is an urban
festival that takes place in Leuven itself – this year's line-up
includes Sugababes and The Levellers.
Culture, cut-price student eating and drinking and cutting-edge music – that's what makes Leuven the place to be in summer!














