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Ramsay and Co bicker like spoilt divas says top chef
Benedict Moore-Bridger, Evening Standard4 Aug 2008
One of London's top chefs has delivered a stinging criticism of Gordon Ramsay labelling him "petulant" and saying he should get back into the kitchen.
Michelin-starred Herbert Berger, executive chef at 1 Lombard Street, said too many celebrity chefs were interested in "bickering" with each other to raise their profile.
The damning criticism comes after the Standard revealed Marcus Wareing's vitriolic attack on his former boss when he labelled the Hell's Kitchen star "a sad b*****d" and said: "If I never speak to that guy again in my life it wouldn't bother me one bit."
Berger said the capital's chefs were behaving like "children" and should concentrate more on cooking than fame.
He said: "I am tired of hearing about bickering among the capital's chefs in order to raise their profile and celebrity status. It is time for the profession to return to the kitchen and decide between food or fame, or at least fame gained by cooking.
"A number of high-profile chefs are behaving like spoilt divas who have lost sight of why they began to cook in the first place. Their behaviour detracts terribly from what they should be doing: concentrating on giving value for money to their customers, preparing the best food and training and looking after the young chefs.
"Petulant children do not ordinarily make the best chefs. We need positive role models, not attention seekers who manipulate the public's outlook.
"Let's return some dignity to what is - for some of us at least - a civilised profession," he added.
Berger also slammed chefs who bully their staff. Tom Aikens was sacked from Pied à Terre after allegedly branding a trainee chef with a hot knife, while Ramsay is famed for his foul language and brash attitude on his television shows.
Aikens later admitted to behaving like an "idiotic lunatic" while in the kitchen.
Berger said: "We hear nightmare stories of terrible work conditions. It is even shown on TV and it is to my mind sadly glorified. The worse they treat their staff, the wider their smiles.
"This is counter-productive behaviour and can only damage the chances of us finding the talent of the future, which the industry so badly needs.
"Scores of potential stars will be put off the prospect of entering this industry by the thought of being subjected to what is, in truth, farcical behaviour."
Not all the capital's chefs feel the need to resort to screaming at staff, however. The Connaught's new head chef, two Michelinstarred Hélène Darroze, told the Standard: "I like to have silence in the kitchen because you need to have a lot of concentration which can only happen with silence."
Reader views (2)
Mr Berger I totally agree with you 110% these so called Divas have lost their way.
They are not what I would call role models in the Hospitality Industry, there are labour shortages in this industry now and these dummy spitters only add to it, little Jonny wants to be a chef but sees how these people act on TV so sees being a chef in a different light being belittled and maybe its not for him, Maybe these Diva's need to pull their heads in.I have been a Chef for 30 years and have never come across people like this I honestly believe if they can't hack it get out of the Kitchen.
- K Harris, Brisbane Australia, 24/08/2008 15:58
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At long last the voice of sanity.
- John Burford, London, 04/08/2008 13:40
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