Ground control to Major Tom! At the Balenciaga show, there was more than a touch of the space age, as designer Nicolas Ghesquiere continued his fascination with all things futuristic in a stellar collection that was the highlight of the day.

Even supermodel Natalia Vodianova was persuaded out of retirement to open the show, clad in a milky pink draped jersey dress with a protruding heartshaped bodice. The 26-year-old Russian model, who is married to English landowner Justin Portman, quit the catwalk last year to focus on bringing up her three young children.

For many, Balenciaga is the hottest ticket of Paris fashion week and of the whole month-long fashion season. But as with most of the biggest innovators, Ghesquiere strongly divides opinion. If you love fashion, you'll love Ghesquiere. And if you think fashion is foolish, you will certainly find his clothes more foolish than most. To the untrained eye, many of his creations look so outlandish as to be unwearable.

This hasn't stopped Balenciaga becoming one of the most desired - and profitable - brands of the moment, with Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Matches operating lengthy waiting lists for popular items. Kate Moss, Victoria Beckham and Emma Watson are among the fans.

Strip away the intimidating Lurex bodysuits from this show and you were left with beautifully crafted pieces that were couture-like in their attention to detail.

High-shine metallic jackets made of ribbons of silver leather were a highlight, as were the finale dresses of gold sequins overlaid with fine fringing. Everything seemed infused with light, while the pale pink, beige, cream and silver only heightened this sense of the ethereal. Even heavy fabrics such as leather and suede, which were used for the tunic dresses, seemed gossamer-light. Subtle perforations and barcode patterns along the seams added interest.

While the collection might look like 2008: A Space Oddity to some, you can guarantee that Balenciaga will set the pace for spring 2009's biggest trends.

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