Morning:
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Sequins and glitter with Van Noten at the office party
Laura Craik2 Oct 2008
The sweet twitter of birdsong greeted guests to Dries Van Noten's show. Granted, it was taped rather than real, but the effect was cheering nonetheless, and set the tone for an upbeat, optimistic presentation.
Van Noten might be a Belgian designer, but with this collection, his heart and soul were firmly in Paris, as there was an insouciant French chic to the clothes as well as a touch of Belgian quirkiness.
Held in the beautiful Palais Royale gardens, the slate grey paving stones served as a catwalk, their rectangular forms echoed by the geometric prints. Graphic black and white checks appeared on trapeze-line jackets, above-knee skirts and oversized clutch bags. Shift dresses came in bright orange and kingfisher blue. Colours were bright and acidic: a canary yellow dustercoat, an orange shirt dress or a purple blouse.
The plain white shirt was integral, a foil to the complex, colourful prints. Some were cropped and boxy, worn with tapered trousers that fell to the ankle; others were classic and mannish, with rolled-up sleeves and tucked into tube skirts. He also pushed a longer skirt that looked a welcome alternative to all the minis in Paris this week.
Van Noten has long been a fan of the sequin as daywear, a concept that the high street has picked up on this autumn. He has never confined sequins to eveningwear, and this show was no exception. Sequins adorned blouses and added a point of interest to day dresses, while the finale was not an evening dress but a silver sequin coat. It was a fitting reflection of how marginalised eveningwear has become in a culture where women rush from office to party without changing, and a reminder of exactly why Van Noten is successful: he understands the modern woman's wardrobe needs.
