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In the red

Liz Hoggard
29.12.08

Every woman who sees Angelina Jolie in Changeling comes out reeling: "Those red lips! You can't concentrate on anything else." Certainly Clint Eastwood uses the lovely Ange to distracting effect in his movie, set during the Great Depression. She may be a poor single mother, deranged by grief but there's no denying the power of that gorgeous scarlet pout.

Now news has broken that the "lipstick effect" has taken hold (sales of cosmetics are rising as women try to cheer themselves up during the financial crisis). No one was surprised. Lipstick is the ultimate credit crunch indicator.

Economists believe that during hard times people forgo extravagant purchases, such as cars and holidays, and spend their money on small luxuries. During the Second World War it was even considered women's patriotic duty to paint their faces.

Whether it's by Chanel, YSL or Poppy King, the perfect ruby bow is the ultimate weapon for any woman craving recession-era chic. Part vamp wear, part performance art, there's something truly heroic about red lippy. It allows you to paint on a smile - or a sneer - and it says: "What the hell!" No wonder Man Ray called it "the scarlet badge of courage". It is, in fact, the only article of make-up I'd defend to the grave. It's my Desert Island cosmetic.

Today fashionistas Scarlett Johansson, Dita Von Teese and young Georgia Jagger are rarely seen without that carmine slash. Girl band The Puppinis, who are performing their Forties-inspired tunes at the Queen Elizabeth Hall on Sunday, even named their album, The Rise and Fall of Ruby Woo, after the famous Mac lipstick (Cure frontman Robert Smith also wears Ruby Woo).

The hot colour for 2008 was a less confrontational coral but now it's scarlet (we're on red alert in a recession). The trick is to look alluring, not borderline harlot. So there are rules. If you want to wear red lipstick, keep the rest of your make-up neutral. Your skin tone will determine what shades are right for you. The more Celtic your colouring, the more orangey you can go. Lipsticks with a bluish undertone suit brunettes and, I've discovered, are kindest to yellowing Seventies teeth (sigh).

And there's a great trick to avoid that tell-tale red stain on teeth (or wine glasses). After applying lipstick, take your index finger and pop it in your mouth, then pull it out. Newsreaders swear by it as the excess lipstick comes off on your finger rather than your teeth.

It is rather suggestive. I'd suggest Angelina tries this one at home.


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