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Pay-what-you-like restaurant's recipe to beat the crunch
Benedict Moore-Bridger03.02.09
A LONDON restaurant is tackling the recession head-on by scrapping bills and letting customers pay what they want.
Peter Ilic, who owns the Little Bay restaurant group, will not present a single food bill to diners, leaving it up to them to decide how much the meal and service is worth.
It comes as a number of Michelin-starred restaurants slash prices to entice credit crunch-hit diners, with lunches for as little as £12.
Mr Ilic, whose "free" dinners are on offer at Little Bay in Farringdon, hopes the deal will lift people's spirits.
He told the Standard: "Even if people don't pay anything I have told my staff to treat them the same as if they pay £50 or £60-a-head.
"It's entirely up to each customer whether they give £100 or a penny. All I'm asking is they pay me what they think the food and service is worth.
"We have seen so many more City boys coming into the restaurant lately, looking for a better value lunch. It just seemed the right thing to do with everyone under the cosh and feeling pretty miserable. This is the ultimate value-for-money meal."
The special recession offer will be available for the whole of February. Wine is not included and tap water will be served.
Mr Ilic worked in Claridge's before opening his first restaurant in Kilburn in 1982. His fourth restaurant, Just Around The Corner, in Finchley Road, opened in 1984, where the "pay what you want" concept was first installed.
The restaurateur said: "Some people will pay more than I would charge, some will pay less.
"In restaurants people don't have to leave a tip but they generally leave 10 per cent. The same applies with this.
"The staff were surprised about how it is going to work but I think we will get more customers through this."
Dishes on offer would not seem out of place in some of the capital's most expensive restaurants.
They include pressed foie gras terrine, paupiette of salmon, smoked haddock brandade, and leek and potato soup with caviar.
Other top chefs have been forced to take similar - albeit slightly less drastic action - after admitting the credit crisis has caused a sharp decline in customers willing to pay for expensive meals. Renowned restaurants including two-starred L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon and single-starred Arbutus offer lunches for less than £20 per head, while the Glasshouse, in Kew, sister restaurant of Chez Bruce, has an £11.75 lunch.
Paul Halliwell, assistant manager of the Glasshouse, said: "The offer started because of the credit crunch. People were worried about the numbers we would get in January, but we're getting twice as many people in because of this."
Mr Robuchon said: "This is the most important economic crisis I've faced in my career. Restaurants will close if they don't adapt."
How much would you pay?
Starters - £3.80
Moules mariniere steamed moules with shallots, parsley, white wine and cream
Smoked haddock brandade
Leek and potato soup with caviar
Crab tartlet with saffron cream dressing and mixed leaf salad
Pressed foie gras terrine with brioche and fig compote
Mains - £8.80
Whole boned poussin paprika potatoes, lentils and peppercorn sauce
Grilled fillet steak with gratin potatoes, spinach and mushroom sauce
Breast of duck with sweet potato, creamed leeks and duck en croute
Paupiette of salmon with avocado and tomato salsa, tomato butter
Puddings - £3.80
Chocolate bavaroise with passionfruit cream and almond biscuit
Pistachio crème brûlée with strawberry ice cream
Reader views (4)
I remember an article I saw here in the states maybe 8 or more years ago about a restauranteur in London doing that same thing. We were intrigued by that and wanted to try it ever since. I am happy to report that in December, 2008 facing a difficult economy, we went ahead and ran that promotion. Many people came out including a bunch that had never dined with us before. Some paid a ridiculously low sum for their food, while most paid within 20% of what the bill would have been. We did it 2 more times. It was a success in our eyes and we got a bunch of free press. I hope that you do well with the promotion and most of all, I hope that you have a good time doing it!
- Chef Rodney Usa, Greenville, South Carolina USA
I think that this is a superb idea, All the best to them. I expect that the business will survive on this basis, due to their standard demographic being prepared to pay as much as usual, and the new trade that this will undoubtedly bring them.
Whether or not this has been done for the publicity? Not sure it matters - fact is that they are prepared to try something rather than letting the recession wash over them like so many others have and probably will continue to do so.
- Rupert Summerfield, Cheltenham UK
I used to eat frequently with my family in his restaurant in Pimlico in the 80's and we always enjoyed our food. The portions were not huge but sufficient. It was great value then and this sounds like a wonderful value too and I will certainly visit his Farringdon Road restaurant.
- Adrian, london
I am not sure I actually agree, apart from the publicity it will generate, this man must have a lot of faith in his fellow man. There are people who 'may take advantage' without a conscience. I remember about 10 years in Cyprus, my family and I went out to celebrate my birthday, we started with a few drinks mid afternoon and then a meal later, leaving at about 1am next morning. I asked for a bill on numerous occasions thinking this is open ended and I am in no-mans land and might be stitched up. More drinks came from the owner at each request. Eventually very tired and everyone just wanting to go to bed I insisted on the bill. He said 'you pay what you think the day has been worth'. It was very nice in one way and he was a great host. But I felt a little embarrased. I hadnt kept count of what we had and luckily for him I never want anything for nothing. So I probably overpaid and of course we returned to this bar 2 or 3 more times...'Like old friends'. But many other people may not have a conscience. I wish him luck.
- Bondy, london
