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Fat Duck ‘poison’ mystery
Benedict Moore-Bridger2 Mar 2009
IT COULD have been the clams or a sick diner spreading germs. But what if a jealous rival deliberately sabotaged Heston Blumenthal's three Michelin-starred restaurant, causing the food poisoning scare that has forced him to shut?
The search was on today for the culprit who nobbled Blumenthal's The Fat Duck.
If this was a Miss Marple drama the finger of blame would surely point at Gordon Ramsay, the only other contender for Britain's greatest living chef and a man eager to divert attention from his own travails - allegations of an affair and claims that he embellished his football career.
But sadly for the scriptwriter of this particular mystery the Scottish chef has a cast-iron alibi.
Blumenthal, known for his "molecular gastronomy" that brought the world snail porridge and bacon and egg ice-cream, has now turned detective himself while his restaurant in Bray, Berkshire, remains shut.
In an interview with the Evening Standard, he said today: "I put that suggestion [sabotage] forward a couple of weeks ago. I have been so fastidious about everything.
"We need to be aware before a customer even gets a headache, so if something comes up I said we have to look at this, not that I have any idea that someone is out to do something. It would be devastating, scary. Once we have explored the obvious avenues, you look further afield and get more unusual origins of a problem." He has reached the conclusion after tests on everything from cooking vessels to the staff themselves came back negative.
The Fat Duck closed last Tuesday after 40 customers fell ill over the previous weeks, prompting Blumenthal to call in health inspectors. It is understood the scare has cost £100,000 in lost bookings.
Blumenthal, who uses just about every scientific instrument bar a nuclear reactor to cook at what is officially the world's second best restaurant, admits he is baffled.
If not deliberate sabotage, then infected seafood, a waiter or customer could be to blame. He said: "When all the tests you could have done have been done and the results are coming back completely and thoroughly clear, these are the things you look at. The whole thing is desperately upsetting. Clams and mussels act as filters, and if there is something wrong with the water, it can cause problems. They arrive [at the restaurant] alive and glistening, but if they are carrying a virus, you are not going to spot it. That should be controlled at source.
"But testing for a virus is like looking for a needle in a haystack." He now has to reschedule meals for about 450 diners affected by the week-long closure - there are hopes The Fat Duck could reopen by Wednesday - while the 40 diners who fell ill will be offered a "Fat Duck experience" as compensation, which is thought to be a very expensive meal.
Blumenthal said: "I will speak to each person who made a booking and will be inviting each of those tables back. If they are still happy to come we will be doing a gesture for them that is more than what they would get coming to the restaurant." He has paid compensation to some of the guests who became ill and will consider further compensation on a "case-by-case basis".
Reader views (7)
Some restauarants are so focused on the food hygiene that they forget that poorly maintained building services (i.e. air conditioning filters and plumbing services) can have the same effect.
- Paul Tinham, Shepperton, 09/03/2009 09:52
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Look at the food that was served and preparation areas. Here normally lies the answer.
- John Smith, London , England, 02/03/2009 17:03
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Food to eat should be fresh ingridients, with not
too much handling, like to make a art out of a natural
food, is all that handling that produce the food poisoning
also it make look more impresive on the plate.
- Paul Satchell, Tenerife -Spain, 02/03/2009 15:22
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Mark in St Albans: Ramsay certainly does charge £200+ per head at his flagship restaurant in Chelsea, even though the food is nowhere near Fat Duck standards, and despite the fact that the man himself probably hasn't been within 100 yards of the kitchen in years.
This story is v bad luck for Heston, who I know is meticulous about food preparation and hygiene.
- Johnny, London, UK, 02/03/2009 14:44
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£100k in lost bookings with 450 people... Thats £222.22 per head. I bet Ramsey doesn't charge that much for lunch !
- Mark, St Albans, 02/03/2009 12:57
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I cannot understand why top chefs go in for such wierd food combinations. It's not surprising that diners get upset stomachs! Mystery solved, I think.
- Michael, London, 02/03/2009 12:55
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Now let's think...which powerful executive has Heston made look very silly on TV lately...hmm
- Sally S, London, 02/03/2009 12:11
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