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Kate Moss
Plainclothes people: Kate Moss have adopted the Cucible look

Crucible chic

Viv Groskop
13 Mar 2009


Uh-oh. You know we're officially in the full-blown horror of global meltdown when Kate Moss starts covering up. This is her at this week's Paris fashion shows doing her best impression of Fraulein Maria (before she got hold of the curtains). Check out the make-up. There isn't any. And the hair? The ultimate in low-maintenance. Thank goodness for the pre-crunch glamour of the sunglasses otherwise she really would look like a nun.

This is sackcloth and ashes for the 21st century. Legs covered up, no high heels, no lipstick: surely the ultimate in ascetic self-flagellation? She looks like she is channelling a Benedictine monk. As they say in LA — what the fug?

This is a fashion 0icon's response to the new mood of austerity: puritan chic. Chanel showed chin-to-toe black tweed evening shrouds in this week's autumn/winter collection: Kate has just tweaked the look for day.

In the meantime, she illustrates beautifully that old maxim people love to trot out whenever the economy goes a bit wobbly: that skirt lengths reflect share prices. Perhaps it really is true. Kate's hem is virtually dragging along in the dirt here.

Image-wise, this is a sensible “down with the kids” move. Kate is showing her solidarity with the world's misery. It seems unlikely that she or anyone around her is directly affected by the recession. But no matter. It's good to know she feels our pain. After all, who wants to see gold sequins, bouncing curls and mountains of bling right now? (Actually I do. But that is exactly why Kate Moss is a great style visionary and I am not.)

What this is really about is taste. At the moment it is vulgar to be anything but monastic. Don't be fooled by the veneer of simplicity, however. Up close there is detailing to be noticed. The buttons at the shoulder, the discreet silver cuff at the wrist, the cocktail ring on her right hand, the Victorian workhouse boots. The hair looks nonchalant but in fact it's recently highlighted and expertly glossed.

Kate Moss goes Crucible (just add bonnet!) is not her most inspiring look but it reflects Planet Fashion's recessional conundrum: “How can you be stylish AND tasteful?”

A full-length cover-up with discreet accessories is one answer but Kate will no doubt have other tricks up her long sleeve.

I have obtained intelligence about her imminent spring/summer collection for Topshop and I have a feeling this nun thing may be temporary. The collection features a strapless hotpant playsuit and two pairs of batty-riders which would make J-Lo blush. So don't invest too heavily in habits.

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Viv,

Very accurate assessment of Kate's look. I could not agree more. Everything is done right for this kind of dress, including no high heels. The dress is elegant.

- Anna, Washington, DC, 13/03/2009 15:11
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