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Stars tell Nobu to end its line in bluefin tuna
Terry Kirby05.06.09
ELLE MACPHERSON, Sienna Miller, Stephen Fry and Sting are among more than 30 celebrity customers who have signed a letter calling on Nobu to stop selling bluefin tuna so that they can "dine with a clear conscience".
Last week it emerged that the two Michelin-starred Nobu restaurants in Mayfair had responded to adverse publicity in a new film by advising customers in a footnote on the menu to avoid ordering bluefin because it was endangered while continuing to serve the fish.
Nobu's restaurants elsewhere in the world also continue to sell bluefin, without the footnote.
The End of The Line, a documentary about overfishing inspired by a book by journalist Charles Clover, features Nobu's continued support for bluefun tuna. Its premiere is on Monday.
The protest letter was started by Kate Goldsmith, the Rothschild heiress, after she watched a special preview of the film.
An Evening Standard survey of top restaurants in the capital has found most confirmed they would not serve bluefin tuna.
But despite mounting pressure from Greenpeace, Nobu remains defiant, stressing that while it takes the issue of bluefin tuna "very seriously" it would continue to sell it because of "enormous demand".
Bluefin tuna is celebrated by sushi chefs and fetches astronomically high prices in Japanese markets, but breeding stocks are at an all-time low.
Many chefs are also privately critical of Nobu's policy. "It is a mixed message to say the least - why buy it in the first place?" said one.
Restaurants and chefs who told the Standard they have rejected serving bluefin tuna include Gordon Ramsay's group, Angela Hartnett at Murano and Jason Atherton at Maze, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Le Gavroche, Giorgio Locatelli's Locanda Locatelli, Hakkasan and Umu.
Achille Checuz, general manager of L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, said: "Why should we import bluefin tuna when we can buy wonderful sustainable fish from inshore boats at Looe in Cornwall?"
Des Gunewardena, chairman of restaurant group D&D London, which includes Launceston Place and Le Pont de la Tour, said: "We do not serve bluefin tuna, choosing only yellowfin from line-caught, sustainable sources. We buy fish in season from UK waters, reducing our food mileage and ensuring species are not bought when spawning."
Tim Hughes, chef director of Caprice Holdings, which includes Scott's, Le Caprice and The Ivy, said: "We have made the decision not to serve bluefin tuna."
Leading chefs also back a campaign by Waitrose Food Illustrated to make chains such as McDonald's and TGI Friday's "wake up" to overfishing.
The magazine asked 49 chains about sustainable sourcing. More than 40 per cent claimed to have a policy but would not state it, 22 per cent declined to comment and 35 per cent did not respond.
Supermarkets Waitrose and Marks & Spencer have already banned selling swordfish, skate and bluefin tuna.
Reader views (6)
"celebrity customers", says it all doesn't it?
Why should anyone care what these overpaid, insecure opinions are on anything?
If you don't like it, then open your own restaurant
and we'll see how successful that is!
- Lb, Bromley
If the dancing monkeys say don't eat the poorly fishies then who am I to argue. These amazing people who can remember and then say words others people have written are demi gods in my eyes...
- Ben, London, W1
Ethan - spot on!
- Rogan, Irving
Yes I am so glad to see so many Black Taxis outside Nobu.
Now please stop selling Blue Fin Tuna.
- Td, London
Irrespective of the content I am heartily pig sick of being preached at by luvvies who think they know whats best for everyone. Obviously this is based on their ability to walk talk and recall script lines? Just what does that have to do with Tuna?
Here's a message for you dahlings. Just cos your a bit well known, I actually don't care a fig, what you and your airhead mates think about every subject on the planet. I have my own opinions and am happy with them. But I don't feel the need to foist them onto everyone else. Take the hint.
Just stick to your hookers, deviant behavour and narcotics abuse and quit lecturing the rest of us OK?
- Ethan, UK
What's it got to do with them? Nobu is Londons finest restaurant/mini cab firm.
- Ted, London
