Morning:
8°c
“English bwoy!” The refrain is a friendly but matter-of-fact greeting, almost as ubiquitous as “Everyting irie”.
You see, they can spot foreigners a mile off in Kingston, even if we do happen to be black or brown.
The way we walk, the way we talk, even the way we misuse the local patois all distinguish us from bona fide Jammos. Even born-and-bred Jamaicans returning after years abroad often get called “foreigner”.
In short, Jamaica is a place with an intoxicating, ardent and unforgiving sense of identity, an exclusive sense of belonging. Despite its strong diaspora connections — London, New York, Miami or Toronto — yard is yard and foreign is foreign, to paraphrase a local expression.
And thus, ironically, I have felt my (Black) British identity most acutely when out here in Kingston this week. Sadly, Red Stripe beer and dancehall reggae are not yet hardwired into my subconscious in the same way that Marmite and tea with two sugars always will be.
What is more, in London, Black Brits are fortunate to possess multiple identities — a kind of “double consciousness” that gives us access to two cultures, our own and that of our parents. By contrast, Jamaican identity is immutable and unyielding.
That's not a bad thing. Ebullient, proud and positive, Kingstonians bear little resemblance to the negative depictions of them in the media back in England. Geographically speaking, five per cent of Kingston (the downtown ghettos) accounts for 95 per cent of the coverage. This erroneous perception of Kingston as a lawless Wild West town needs correcting.
And although “shy” and “retiring” are not adjectives often used to describe Jamaicans, “loud” and “aggressive” are equally untrue. I haven't heard one single gunshot or seen one crack pipe since I arrived. And I smell more ganja on a daily basis walking down Coldharbour Lane in Brixton than I have in the whole of my time here.
But personally I prefer London's laissez-faire approach to identity. A malleable and fluid place, London lets me choose, shape and define myself precisely the way I want. My London accent is something to be proud of out here, not to be ashamed of or try to conceal. I have long abhorred those who feel the need to be yet another “Ja-fake-an”. Such “wannabe” attitudes make a mockery of who we are as Brits, especially as Black Brits.
The search for “roots” and “belonging” are familiar and painful for many second-generation Brits. We've all been there at some time or other. But for me, belonging begins in your head, not in a place 5,000 miles away.
And when you get here, you realise that, as welcoming as Jamaica is, and as much as you connect with many elements of the culture and the people, deep down you belong more at home — and always will.
Life does sound seductively appealing when set to a reggae beat, and the stoical optimism, doughty resilience and blithe cheerfulness of the Jamaican spirit can certainly teach us Brits a thing or two.
Downtown Kingston uplifts the heart and mind by dint of its sheer energy, but after a while it does make you yearn for the somewhat less frenetic, less strident pace of London.
The reggae singer Jah Cure once proclaimed: “The journey of a thousand miles begins and ends with you.” Throughout this week, this aphorism has resonated in my mind. It has certainly been worth travelling across an ocean, if only to be reminded of where I'm really from.
Lindsay Johns is a cultural critic for Colourful Radio
Reader views (4)
There are more Irish in New York than in Ireland.
More west indians in the UK than the West Indies.
More English in Australia, Canada, and the USA than in England.
I could go on and on; no wonder we are all mixed up; nobody knows who they really are anymore.
Just live your lives and stop worrying ok; after all, who cares who you are anyway.
- Mickyinlondon, london, 09/06/2009 16:27
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100% agree on the identity point
- Aston Parkes, Billericay, essex, 09/06/2009 13:30
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If your previous reader cannot see beyond the "general run down look of the place" to the beautiful colonial architecture; the casual humour and good nature of the people; the rich variety of food (smell and taste); and the exhilarating energy of the place then it is probably a good thing that he does not go back. As for me I will continue to go every year.
- Charles Donaldson, London, England, 08/06/2009 13:34
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You clearly see Jamaica and Kingston in a different light to me. I visited the Island 2 years ago and found it a dump: buildings, transport, roads etc in a terrible state, plus all the rubbish and general run down look of the place, I would never return.
- Bobby Brown, Leeds, UK, 08/06/2009 12:27
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