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Humiliation for French as they fall down the wine list
Jonathan Prynn, Consumer Business Editor08.07.09
For centuries if Britons drank wine the chances were it was French - excepting the occasional bottle of Liebfraumilch or Chianti.
But having been overtaken by Australia in 2004 and the US last year, France has suffered the humiliation of sinking to fifth place in British wine drinkers' affections.
Latest market figures from analysts Nielsen show that drinkers prefer reds, whites and rosés from Italy and South Africa - which has only exported to Britain since the end of apartheid in the mid-Nineties - to those from the traditional home of wine. With demand for Chilean wine also rising fast, France could even slump into sixth.
Wine experts said France had been hit by high costs in its small vineyards, the strength of the euro, damaging petty disputes between its 21 wine regions and changing tastes during the recession. The country has seen the mass vin de table market virtually wiped out by the influx of cheap wines from the New World.
The collapse is so severe that British retailers and importers, including Tesco and Morrisons, have even clubbed together to advise the French government on how to improve the image of its wine.
In a letter to the French agriculture minister Michel Barnier, the group said: "We are united in the belief that France needs to change the way it promotes its wine in the UK if it is ever to regain - or even stabilise - its market share."
Graham Nash, wine buyer at Tesco, Britain's biggest wine retailer, said: "Unlike big brands from the New World such as Gallo and Jacob's Creek, French wine is still sold geographically and its message is confusing.
"I've held the view for some time that it wouldn't surprise me to see France firmly rooted in 4th, 5th or 6th place."
Brian Howard, business development director of Wine Intelligence consultancy, said the recession accelerated the trend: "It is not as if Britain's 27.9million adult regular wine drinkers have woken up and said 'I'm not going to drink French wine today'.
"French is still preferred in the over-£6 category but we have seen a move away from formal occasions at home when traditionally a big French Bordeaux or Burgundy would be the must have."
South African wines have been particularly popular over the past year because the rand is weaker than the pound, allowing supermarkets to lower prices. The average price of a South African bottle sold in Britain is £4.25.
Reader views (10)
I personally prefer French wine. I find New World wines sugary and overpoweringly alcoholic. That said, they are more accessible to those who are new to wine, are drinking it in pubs and clubs and often without food.
I spend time and energy seeking out good regional French wines as well as the traditionally great (and often more pricey) wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. Not everyone else can be bothered to be so discerning.
- Paul Doherty, York, UK
Humiliation Hummm ? I think here some journalist are taking pleasure in endorsing and slashing the French reputation ..... We all know that the fact that the U.K has been moving toward Brands from the new World and taking over French position due to a simple fact Economics ... The new world produces Brands with Marketing Approach , several 100.000 bottles if not millions + with one quality , one label and massive marketing Budget .the average size Vineyards in France is around 20ha , new World 10-20+ time bigger . As far as consumer is concerned U.K , the palate is much build on European Taste however the Eye is marketingly driven just look at our High street Individuality has gone for ever . It is in fact a disaster for the U.K palate and wine culture....I do not agree with Graham Nash of Tesco , Supermarket push wines from New world simply because Tesco get budget from these Brands such as 2 FOR 3+ other incentives .French can't compete with that . The fact that french are sold under geographic approach has never been a problem looking at past history , records.. On lower end sure Varietal should be higlighted for French wine to seduce younger and new consumer ...
If the supermarket carry on this trend they will end up with 5 LABELS on their shelves representing 50-80% of their Sales ! They are killing the English Wine Intelect culture ! overall it is pure Economics problem !SIZE MATTERS ! ....
- Lahcene Boutouba, London
I envy the French. Their food and wines are normally excellent and they have ensured that their beautiful towns have been spared the ravages that we have allowed in this country. Even their shop windows are normally displayed with flair seldom seen here. I'd love a second home in France but unfortunately can't afford it.
- Scotty, Cambridge UK
Two thoughts.
One is that the French almost certainly keep the best of their wine for themselves.
The other is that the average British wine-drinker isn't particularly well-informed, and will be likely to buy whatever his supermarket of choice is promoting.
Supermarkets prefer wines which they can obtain in vast quantities, so they can promote it nationwide and not run out within days. Australia, South Africa, California can supply in quantity (and make some pretty good wines as well).
- Nigel, London
I agree with Steve and Gary. The French are completely at ease with themselves and their culture - proud people - deservingly so. The wine is delicous, you will always get a good cabernet, merlot, champaigne and the list goes on. New world wines are exciting because they are a combination of vines grown together - experimentations that are tantilising to the taste buds which is exciting for all. Though because they are new - you will get a good wine for a VERY good price..
Cheers to all good wines, French, Australian, Sth African and more!
- Natalie Ralston, Sydney, Australia
You're talking about the buying trends of the masses which are generally dictated by what's on offer in Tesco that week. I doubt most people have ever tried a burgundy, chateau neuf du paps, pouilly fume or even a simple chablis.
- Bob, Cheam
My preference is for Spanish or Italian reds and there are few New World wines that come even close, but then again what do you expect for a fiver.
I've always found French wines to be good if not a tad over-priced but something like a Chateau Palmer Alter Ego Margaux Medoc is well worth high price tag.
- Mark, South-East London
I think it's the way France treated the British is the problem. Why buy things from the French when all they do is stab you in the back,double crossing and being very unfair especially in the E.E.U.
We like to feel comfortable knowing when we buy things from a country that is very warm to the British.
- Joe, Swanley Kent
Knowing and enjoying the French culture. I doubt they will lose any sleep over this mumbo-jumbo. The French are what they are and get on with it, as Steve states we are the ones with no sense of community or culture as it is not PC to have one. By 'us' I mean the England the forgotten state much run down by the so called British running amuck in our Country telling us our culture is Vindaloo and football thugs. Wonder what Chaucer or Shakespeare would make of what England has become, no doubt they would move to France because at least they know what they are about when we are not allowed to be what we are. All this rhetorical slandering of the French is certainly not cricket and comes across as little more than envy which as a theory I support. The French may refuse to fight but on culture they have us beat. If they came last in this wine list they would celebrate as that would leave more for them.
viva la france
- Gary, Brentwood
Are we supposed to be laughing at them?At least they still have their culture and can keep their country in order.
What have we got?Pie and chips and a litre of cider.
- Steve, London
