Tonight:
4°c
The temperature on a Friday night in New Kingston is rising.
Knutsford Boulevard — the main uptown thoroughfare in the dynamic, modern part of the city — is alive with Kingstonians in the mood to party.
Their joie de vivre is palpable and in both Quad, the city's largest and favourite nightclub, and next door in Pure, crushingly beautiful, ridiculously nubile women “wine up” seductively to the latest ragga riddims.
Being a gentleman, I selflessly volunteer to dance with some single ladies.
Still dancing as dawn breaks, stamina, not to mention rhythm, are the all-important ingredients for a night out in Kingston.
The capital of Jamaica traditionally gets a mauling in the British press. “Violent” and “dangerous” are epithets touted with abandon, often glibly proffered by people who have never been.
Unlike the stereotypes of ganja-smoking rastas for whom everything is perennially irie, despite apparently living amid a miasma of urban deprivation, the reality of Kingston is joyously different.
“Urbane”, “sophisticated”, “friendly” and “safe” are the first words that come to mind to describe this most beguiling of Caribbean cities.
Habitually yet unfairly overlooked in favour of the north coast resorts in Montego Bay, Ocho Rios and Negril, today Kingston's cultural currency is soaring.
For those who didn't pack their dancing shoes Kingston is bejewelled with decorous, well-maintained parks.
After a hearty breakfast of ackee and saltfish (the national dish), I head to National Heroes' Park to catch the Changing of the Guard (on the hour every hour).
I pay homage before monuments to Jamaican deities such as Sam Sharpe, Paul Bogle, Alexander Bustamante and Norman Manley before visiting the Redemption Song statues in Emancipation Park (commemorating the end of slavery in 1838).
Then it's on to the National Gallery. Situated by the waterfront, it reflects the exuberance and vitality of post-independence Jamaican art.
Founded in 1972 and set in tranquil surroundings, its collection holds among other highlights The Conversation by Barrington Watson, a lyrical, evocative testament to the nobility of Jamaican women.
With arresting works by Albert Huie and sculptures by Edna Manley, the colours of the canvases imbue the depictions of island life with an allure and dignity often lacking in our attitude towards Jamaica.
Art galleries make me hungry. Must be something to do with the consumption of all that high culture.
So it was with relief that I headed to lunch. That Chris Blackwell certainly has an eye for a view.
The founder of Island Records, his Strawberry Hill hotel is half an hour's drive from Kingston in the foothills of the Blue Mountains.
It is the perfect weekend lunch spot, where undulating hills and the view down to Kingston and the sea beyond, provide an aesthetic feast to complement the food.
This is pure Elysian Fields territory. The crab and papaya starter and oxtail with fried plantain for the main course rank highly on my list of outstanding epicurean memories.
On my way back to town, I stop to admire Devon House.
A colonial mansion built in 1881 by George Stiebel, Jamaica's first black millionaire, The house is set in extensive grounds, with manicured lawns and priceless period décor which tell of bygone grandeur and racial pride.
Complete with its own ballroom and Murano glass chandeliers, its sheer opulence offers a revealing insight into the psyche of Stiebel, a self-made entrepreneur, the Puff Daddy of his day.
A post-tour coconut ice cream in the gardens — reputedly the best on the island — was totally revitalising. Suitably fortified, I then made the obligatory pilgrimage.
A bit like visiting Saint Peter's when in Rome, the Bob Marley Museum at 56 Hope Road is the great unavoidable on any visit to Kingston, the home between 1975 and 1981 of the global black icon, colossus of reggae and purveyor of the message of Jah Rastafari to millions worldwide.
Be it Bob's spartan bedroom, the kitchen where his vegetarian meals were prepared, or the room, complete with bullet holes in the wall, where he survived an assassination attempt in 1976 — each sheds light on the man behind the myth.
That evening, I met up with my good friend Lenny, a Kingstonian to the core.
They're a rare breed, Kingstonians — genuine, sincere, and they tell you to your face exactly what they think. So when Lenny says to me “Lindsay, unno family,” I know he means it.
Theirs is no English “stiff upper lip”, only a desire to live life to the fullest, despite the everyday hardships many face.
Later that evening, the fashion show at Fort Charles in Port Royal which I am attending as part of Style Week is also great fun.
Proudly showcasing the finest in Jamaican sartorial elegance in this most historic of surroundings, Amazonian ebony models with formidable cheekbones and dazzling Afrocentric glamour teeter on high heels along ramparts turned into impromptu catwalks.
Although Port Royal, described some 400 years ago as “the most sinful city in the world”, does not live up to its reputation for debauchery, the new designers and their prodigious talent more than compensate.
There is no better way to rejuvenate than with a chilled-out Sunday at Hellshire beach, where families flock to enjoy the vibe.
Steamed fish, bammy (cassava cakes) and festival (dumplings), all washed down with June plum juice, provide the perfect accompaniment to the fierce sun and inviting azure sea.
With not a human lobster in sight, this is decidedly a local spot.
With its huge sound system speakers pumping out reggae, Prendy's is the place to eat and lime at (as Jamaicans say). With a Red Stripe in one hand and a book in the other, I confess that dolce far niente never felt, tasted or sounded so good.
Kingston is a refined yet sensual blend of elegant high culture and vibrant nightlife.
Moreover, the city is both safe and cheap, with some of the best food and the friendliest denizens in the western hemisphere.
As Bob Marley sang, “Lively up yourself” and make the effort to explore outside your comfort zone.
The pay-off will be great.
Lindsay Johns is a writer, broadcaster and cultural critic on Colourful Radio.
Way to go
The package
BA Holidays has three nights B&B at the four-star Courtleigh Hotel & Suites in Kingston from £831pp (seven nights from £1,070). www.ba.com
The events
Kingston On The Edge Urban Art Festival, 19-27 June. www.yardedge.net www.visitjamaica.com
Reader views (17)
LOL at some of the ignorance displayed; Kev from London - biggest LOL at you. Life in Kingston is really not any different than living in any other major city. Yes, there is ghetto and violence - same as New York, Miami, London, Nassau, Rio, name it. If you as a tourist feel the need to go into the ghetto in any city, then take what you went looking for. Bob from Toronto hit the nail on the head, you have never met such a strong people in such a beautiful country. I find that even the children of Jamaican immigrants many times have no clue as to where they really come from - and it is much easier to believe the hype than to have the guts to live it and form an opinion based in reality not foreign newscasts.
I would say take a holiday to Ocho Rios or Montego Bay, and make sure to spend a weekend in Kingston. It has some of the best nightlife, cultural activities and restaurants in the region, without the commercial pretension of more touristy cities. And I am from The Bahamas, which most certainly people think of as one of the top countries of the Caribbean.
Except you, Kev. Stay in London and lock your doors, a yardie might get you.
- star, Nassau, Bahamas, 31/07/2010 16:33
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I am 35 and lived in Jamaica all my life, the last 15 in Kingston. There is no no doubt and the statistics tell us that Jamaica is way too violent to be regarded as "normal". However the vast mojority of violence is isolated. I have never witnessed a murder or seen a murder victim lying in the street. I have never been robbed or had a knife pulled on me. With the high crime rate it is ineviteble that I do know persons that have been murdered or robbed though.
Nor do I live in a cocoon. I regularly go out and visit most of the spots the writer talks about. I take visitors to these places or recommend they go. I enjoy my life here and don't fear being a victim of a crime. I might have my head in the sand, but nor am I paranoid. I take precautions - I don't make myself vulnerable - why walk down a lonely back street in the night or drive through a ghetto? Those are things I would not do in any big city.
The crime problem is due to our violent history created by unforgiving colonists and slave masters and the conditions that our ancestors have been asked to endure. It took the violence of slaves to earn their freedom and our violent culture endures. Unfortunately it will take decades of resolve, effort and resources to correct.
I choose to live here - I could go back to the UK or find some other more developed country to live in, but Jamaica carries an alure not easily replicated.
- Thomas, Kingston, Jamaica, 31/07/2010 15:43
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It is good to see this article paints Kingston Jamaica in a positive light. I will say with bias aside that Kingston is an extremely aggressive city and has a deserved reputation as one of the murder capitals of the world. However these are for the most part, gang/turf related occurences.; tourists are treated very well on the Island. That being said, if you go to Jamaica, you must go to the city to understand what the Country is about. Take precaution, don't go into the southern part of the city at night, and you will be ok. People talk about Kingston as if you will be shot as soon as you leave the airport, it is simply not like that. The city has an indescribable positive vibe that you will only understand if you go. Some of the comments on this article are really negative, if you understand where Jamaica is coming from and the ambitions of the nation, you can't help but love Jamaica. There are problems today with Jamaica and Kingston, but the country oozes with a dynamic and rich culture one can only understand if they visit, and not go due to biased and hate filled opinions on the Island. As a side note, if you remotely like reggae, even the slightest bit, Jamaica is a must visit before you die, especially Kingston. By the way to Jason, my fellow Torontonian, the head in the sand syndrome is simply Kingstonians fed up with the notion that people think they need a bullet proof vest to go buy milk from Lee's Food Fair.
- Bob, Toronto, Canada, 24/02/2010 02:55
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Well maria,I do suppose seeing a gay man(alegedly)being chased into a chemists in Kingston by a mob of macheti waving locals who were intent on hacking the poor guy to death on the street does cloud my view of the country i suppose,not a thing i wanted my children to whitness,nor indeed myself.
- Kev, London-UK, 24/02/2010 01:55
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I was born in Kingston and it will always be by home, but I am not blind to the dangers. Yes, there is a lot of crime, maybe moreso than other big cities. If that is a problem for you, don't go.
By way of "compensation", or maybe it is cause and effect, as described in the opening paragraphs the pace of the social life (restaurants, bars, parties, beach life) makes most other cities seem like Saga holidays.
Kev, Don and any other pessimists, you are welcome to the rest of the world. To others, go, be sensible, have a look around and have fun! I would suggest staying with Jamaican friends if possible though - public transport is not great and it takes a local to know the best things to do.
- Jake, London, 24/02/2010 01:55
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There is good and bad in every society, and Jamaica is no different, which is why I like this attempt to show a different side to Kingston, which is long overdue. Negril and Ocho Rios are sweet for tourists who don't want to mix with the locals (apart from those serving them) If we're going to criticize the island and its people for the misdeeds of a violent minority, then we shouldn't complain when others look at us the same way. Believe me, they do, because although we've given the world many good things, our history is soaked in blood.
- Harry B, London UK, 24/02/2010 01:55
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I learnt two things in Jamaica: if a man's shirt is loose then he is carrying a weapon and, if you hear gun shots you must "assume the position", ie a foetal position!
My Dad is Jamaican and i used to visit the Island often when I worked in Grand Cayman (just an hour's flight away). I've had some great times there but its not safe at all and I would not recommend Jamaica as a holiday destination.
- Kathy, London, 24/02/2010 01:55
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This article is about dispelling myths. The Jamaicans that I know, those amongst my family and friends living in around Kingston are educated, professional and fun-loving people who regularly and peacefully make the most of the best food, the best beaches and the most significant cultural institutions the Caribbean has to offer, all of which are on their doorstep! Kingston has been the location of some of my sweetest holiday memories. I pity those whose ignorance will prevent them from experiencing the delights Jamaica has to offer - it's their loss not Jamaica's.
- Marie, Surrey, UK, 24/02/2010 01:55
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Becky Hume and Jake are correct. Michelle! There is more violence going on in Spain,England than Jamaica, no one wants to talk about it!
There are too many people quick to slag off Jamaica who have never been. Especially Black people from other Islands who don't like Jamaicans. In reality, these people are just jealous of Jamaica, because they have been unable to make their international mark on the world, so they resort to accepting the negative aspects of Jamaica. When people think Caribbean they think Jamaica, Barbados, St. Lucia, and Antigua, in that order!
Jamaica is a great place to holiday. Like any place you don't act the fool or assume that because you are British you can treat the locals like crap. The locals will try it on, you just have to be shrewd and apply commonsense.
What annoys me is the amount of Black folks from Britain who slag off Jamaica, I think this is down to their ignorance, and the fact they are treated differently to white tourists.
Most importantly, they assume that Jamaicans are backwards because they are not into Grime or any form of UK Black culture. Worse still many are dissappointed because they cant do in Jamaica what they can do in Europe!
Walk street at night and harass the local folks as is the case in Greece, Cyprus, Portugal and Spain. You can but unless you are willing to offer some cash and a ticket to the UK. On a serious note! ENJOY THE HOLIDAY
- Delroy Constantine-Simms, kENT, 24/02/2010 01:55
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You must be mad to suggest that Kingston is an ideal family holiday destination. It is one of the most dangerous cities in the Caribbean with over a thousand murders each year and I should know because I worked there as a Police Officer.
- Don., Bidefors. England., 24/02/2010 01:55
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I think Kingston would make a great holiday destination and I am certainly tempted to go having read this article. Lets not be quick to judge Jamaica for all its bad press... this country and culture has muc to offer!
- Becky Hume, London, UK, 24/02/2010 01:55
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Kev, London-UK
Why would you go to Jamaica to look for people to teach you children good manners,kindness and not to be prejudice. Simply by writing with such disgust you are teaching them to be prejudice. Jamaica is a Carribben Island that is been ripped off they by their colonel masters and left with an Education System though very good, everyone is not entitled to it.
The world over where there are vast desperities between rich and poor comes with its share of pickpockets and not very nice people, but you cannot draw a X right accross the board .
- Maria, vienna, 24/02/2010 01:55
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For years I have wanted to visit Jamaica but have worried about the 'violence' aspect! After reading this article it has definatley changed my mind. Lindsay describes Kingston as being a friendly, vibrant and cultural place .. somewhere you would want to visit.
- Michelle, London, 24/02/2010 01:55
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Having taken a holiday in the very places that this artical is a advertisement for last year,I can only say watch ur wallets and valuables,and if you are female keep well away from the local guys 99.9%of whom are gigalos(or think they are)and will take you for everything they can,and the people are so rude and agressive and will pull a knife on you as soon as look at you.Jamaica is no place for your children unless you wont to teach them bad manners,greed and predjudice.There are better&safer Islands populated by nicer people.
- Kev, London-UK, 24/02/2010 01:55
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I wonder if one day London will have a revival or has it been lost forever to people who dream of other places?
- Tp, Cockney east enders, 24/02/2010 01:55
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Delroy Constantine Simms - I think you're comments perfectly demonstrate the 'head in the sand' syndrome demonstrated by many Jamaicans. You mentioned that Spain and England have more violence going on. I have a simple question for you. What is the population of Spain and England - 40 million and 55 million. Now, what is the population of Jamaica - 2.5 million? So where is the comparison? As somebody whose parents are from Jamaica, I refuse to allow my love of my culture, blind me from teh reality which is - Jamaica is a ridiculously violent country where the number of murders EXCEED both Spain and England. IF you can't accept there is a problem, then obviously you don't feel the need to fix it!
- Jason, Toronto, Canada, 24/02/2010 01:55
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there are good and bad in every country. i am a 22 year old white female from england and i lived in kingston jamaica for 18 months. yes be carefull around the men most of them do want something and if ur in the street dont carry a lot of money. however it is easy to pick the good men from the bad by the way they look dress talk and treat you so keep ur eyes and ears open. i found jamaicans to be some of the nicest people i have ever met in my life helpfull friendly and fun. there are always gonna be people with an attitude where ever you go u just have to look past it its a diferent world out there were in england if u are rude to a customer at work or turn up late or slack of you get the sack but the pace of life is diferent in jamaica. if u want things to get done fast properly and professional jamaica is not the place for you. if you stay safe u will be safe the same rule aply walking through london u are more likely to get a pick pocket there than jamaica. and what people say about the women they do not hate u because your white jamaican women hate any woman that looks good or has nice things or has a good man regardless of colour.its a girl thing global.but if i could choose any country and recomend to any one it would be jamaica great people and great food great weather and no matter what people say jamaican children are the most polite respectful kids ever good manners. u will never want to leave go and see.
- Amy, london england, 24/02/2010 01:55
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