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Reims
Reims is the centre of the Champagne region

Hidden Paris: where to go off the beaten track

Tom Hall, Travel Editor, Lonely Planet
2 Mar 2010

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Londoners are spoilt rotten to have Paris on their doorstep.

Our love affair with the French capital sees thousands of us cross the channel each weekend for a fix of Francophile living.

But after fifteen years of Eurostar speeding us to France some may feel they've seen the sights of the French capital.

Before you set your sights on pastures new though, bear in mind that there's more to Paris than what's on the banks of the Seine.

The French transport network radiates out of Paris, linking the city with some fantastic sights that most tourists don't see. There are dozens of fantastic half or full-day excursions. Here are a few to try.

St Denis

Strictly part of Paris, complete with its own arrondisment postcode, St-Denis was once so much more and today enjoys a unique position in French history and culture.

The Basilica of St-Denis was formed in seventh century by Dagobert I, an early King of the Franks.

Dozens of Kings and Queens of France are buried here and, miraculously, their tombs survived the Revolution.

Once you've had your fill of history, take a guided tour around the Stade de France. This futuristic super-stadium was the venue for France's 1998 World Cup triumph. You can reach St-Denis in a few minutes by fast RER train from central Paris.

Fontainebleu

Louis XVI's glittering and enormous Palace of Versailles gets the big crowds, but discerning chateau-fans aim for Fontainebleu.

Less than an hour from Paris, the 1900 room palace is one of France's finest and dates from Renaissance times.

It was also a favourite haunt of Napoleon Bonaparte.

Once you've viewed the splendid rooms and strolled the gardens there are lovely cafes in the well-heeled town of the same name to rest up in before, if you're feeling very active, heading into the woods of the Foret de Fontainebleu which offer hiking, off-road biking and rock climbing.

Chartres

The lovely, sleepy medieval town of Chartres is dominated by the other Notre Dame, the astonishing 13th century cathedral that looms over gabled houses and cobbled streets.

As you stroll uphill from the station to the cathedral you'll note the two huge but very different spires, one Romanesque and one Gothic.

This is a clue to the treats inside. You'll find one of the world's best collections of stained glass, relics which attracted medieval pilgrims and a sombre, spiritual atmosphere once inside the 130m-long masterpiece that feels unchanged for centuries.

Don't miss the ornately carved statuary in the doorways and niches of the outside. Chartres takes no more than 70 minutes by train from Montparnasse station.

Parc Asterix

As doggedly French as the indomitable Gaul himself, Parc Asterix is a local favourite with more hair-raising rides that Disneyland Paris.

Don't miss the Thunder of Zeus, regularly voted Europe's top wooden rollercoaster, and the Menhir Express log flume.

The park is open from April to October and is served by a shuttle bus from Charles de Gaulle Airport's bus station.

Reims

Combining the French metropolitan mix of great food, fast TGV rail links to the capital and a strollable city centre, Reims has a special ingredient others can't buy.

The city is the centre of the Champagne region and a tour of a producer's premises and glass or two of the sparkling stuff is just the way to round off a visit.

Mumm, Taittinger and Pommery are all within easy reach of the city centre. Reims is 45 minutes TGV journey from Gare de l'Est, a five minute walk from Gare du Nord.

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