Set on a pear-shaped peninsula, Rovinj rises up like a tiny piece of Italy, crowded with Venetian-style houses with terracotta tile roofs, topped by the vast white Baroque church whose bell tower dominates the skyline.

Part of the Venetian Empire for more than 500 years from the 13th century, the Italian influence is stronger here than anywhere else in Croatia. Most people speak Italian as well as Croatian, and Istriot, a Romance language peculiar to this part of Istria. But more than anything else — the stunning scenery, the warm Mediterranean climate — it was the food that made a lasting impression on me. Italy is often hailed as the food lovers' paradise but Istria deftly takes the mantle — and at a pocket-friendly price because until Croatia joins the EU in 2012 the local kuna is used.

I ate a particularly memorable lunch in the sun outside Scuba, a harbour-side restaurant: local asparagus risotto followed by creamy, rich truffle tagliatelle (the truffle “scene” has been around since the 1940s yet somehow overlooked), with cats stalking around under the table for scraps (there weren't many). Also memorable, but in a different way, was the paint-stripper strength local grappa “on the house”, offered here and in every restaurant in town. After lunch, I climbed up the steep hill to admire the view of the forest-strewn surrounding islands and visit the Church of Santa Euphemia with its richly ornate interior shining with gold and silver and, more importantly, the sarcophagus of the town's patron saint.

One of the narrow medieval streets that rise up to the church is Grisia, home to the town's artists and galleries where canvases are hung on crumbly old stone walls. Each summer an arts festival of the same name is held here.

I ate another memorable meal at the family-run La Puntuleina restaurant on the terrace overhanging the clear marine-blue water below. Thin slices of courgette, octopus, prawns, mussels and clams drizzled with local olive and balsamic oil
followed by penne with tomato and crab caught fresh that day. Fisherman bring their catch direct to the restaurant where it is cooked with olive oil, garlic and tomatoes.

A large grilled sea bream with spinach, potato and olive oil was placed on the table. This simple food uses seasonal local produce, which is the key to the mouthwatering cuisine here, and all for around €25. The wine here is excellent too, in particular the blossomy white Malvasia or acidic red Teran, with wine production firmly rooted in the region's history. There's even an Istrian saying: bread is for the body; wine is for the soul.

I had to stroll slowly back to my base which was in complete contrast to the cobblestone-cuteness and brightly painted houses of the Old Town.
Rovinj's first five-star hotel, the Monte Mulini, opened last year and is the most strikingly modern building in the area. A bold architectural statement by WATG architects (Mandarin Oriental, One&Only), the light-filled hotel is arranged over four floors with the front a panoramic glass wall showing off the view of the Adriatic Sea and forest and the vast outdoor pool below.

Rooms are large, well-designed and colourful with luxurious bathrooms. The spa has glittering gold floors, a small indoor pool with gold leather cubes for tables and a large gold mosaic above. My treatment just had to be the 24-carat gold facial with gold leaf placed on the skin.

Probably undoing the good work, I went straight to a rich dinner at the hotel's Wine Vault restaurant. The food was meticulously presented with excellent service. Perfect scallops with sweet beetroot, bacon, apple and alfalfa were served in an oversized glass bowl resembling an upside down hat. The main of Pierre Gagnaire-style sea bass with morels and Swiss chard was a homage to the three Michelin-starred chef, who attended the launch.

The next day I walk past the fishing boats (batanas) and sailing vessels in the pretty harbour before taking a boat tour with a local called Gordon. I marvelled at the clear, green-blue waters spotting shoals of fish.

There are between 13 and 22 islands dotted around this area, depending on your source. Some are so tiny there is nothing on them but a few pine trees or a lighthouse while others, such as “Red island”, have large private hotels.

From here it is an easy day trip to visit the Brijuni (bree-you–knee) archipelago. Catch the ferry from the jetty at the small fishing village of Fazana, 30 minutes from Rovinj, to Veli, the largest, state-owned island, once the summer playground of communist leader Tito where he entertained heads of state and celebrities. Everyone from Fidel Castro to Sophia Loren is immortalised in black and white photographs on show in the small, slightly dated museum.

The only residents on the island are the animals in the safari park — gifts from visiting dignitaries. Two elephants were given by Indira Gandhi (one is amazingly still alive) and a Shetland pony was a gift of the Queen. Many perished due to the climate and are bizarrely preserved in a taxidermy display here. The first animals to arrive were the dinosaurs whose giant footprints can be seen by the waters edge.

Just by Tito's old house lie the remains of ancient Roman villas, also well-preserved — probably due to the climate and the fact that after his death in 1980 the islands were declared a national park. There are no cars on the island, so my guide drove a golf buggy through the championship golf course where the grass is kept short by the grazing animals.

Watching them made me think of the sumptuous feasts I'd dined on this trip. It was time to return to Rovinj …

DETAILS: ROVINJ

Ryanair flies to Pula from Stansted, returns from £59, ryanair.com
Meteor has seven days airport parking from £75, meteormeetandgreet.com
Holiday Autos at Pula airport has seven days car hire for £228, holidayautos.co.uk
The Hotel Monte Mulini has doubles from €470 B&B, montemulinihotel.com
Visit croatia.hr